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Closed Segment Project 1441

Today I gave my bowl a very heavy sanding to cut back the surface Poly and leave the pores filled. I recoated it again and will probably cut it back one more time. The pores seem to be shrinking even after the first and second application of poly..
 
Glenn McCarron said:
Peter, my biggest concern with having to swap out my chuck jaws with the jumbo jaws each and every time I add a ring is to register my bowl body back to where it started from. I ensure my tenon on the waste block is deep enough but still allows the face of the jaws to register it back to flat. I also ensure the size of the tenon is very close to where the jaws are completely closed to allow for the greater grip. I don't think I could count on that happening with a wood thread given the fact that it would be off and on about 25 times on this bowl. I do have the tap in question and find it works great for some projects.

That being said I think the best method is the one that works for you.
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I certainly wasn't trying to tell you how to do anything was just pointing out a different option than buying a new chuck but you
obviously new about it anyway.I am sorry I misinterpreted your meaning.On a side note your bowl looks stunning.
 
peter white said:
I certainly wasn't trying to tell you how to do anything was just pointing out a different option than buying a new chuck but you
obviously new about it anyway.I am sorry I misinterpreted your meaning.On a side note your bowl looks stunning.
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Peter I always appreciate getting ideas from others. I did not mean to sound condescending towards your idea. It certainly has merit. I'm just not sure I would try it on this type of project. Thanks for the comment.
 
Did another sand back today. The pores look like they are starting to fill but may need a few more coats and sanding. Has anyone else tried to get the pores of wenge or padauk filled? If it was all one color a wet sanding may produce a slurry to help fill the pores but with multi types of wood I think it would make a mess. Thoughts?
 
I have used sanding sealer (min wax) before to help fill pores. Then finished with wipe on poly
 
Use sanding sealer and instead of sanding very carefully use a cabinet scraper cardto remove it. Do this several times and then start sanding. With the lathe turning very slow I have never had a problem had a problem with a scraper holding it below center with no tool rest. If you try it be careful because the cards have a lot of sharp edges.
 
Glenn,

I did a vessel that was almost all wenge and it took 12 coats of poly (2 coats of sanding sealer, 9 coats of gloss and 1 coat of satin.) When I finished there were no pores visible. This technique is a variation of one that I learned from Malcom Tibbetts. Generally, on most close grain hardwoods, I do 2, 2, 1, but wenge is a special case.
 
Tom Dlugosh said:
Glenn,

I did a vessel that was almost all wenge and it took 12 coats of poly (2 coats of sanding sealer, 9 coats of gloss and 1 coat of satin.) When I finished there were no pores visible. This technique is a variation of one that I learned from Malcom Tibbetts. Generally, on most close grain hardwoods, I do 2, 2, 1, but wenge is a special case.
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Thank you Tom, this is what I was sort of expecting. I think the padauk is almost as open as the wenge. I have done about 4 applications of the poly and then sanded quite deep to prevent a buildup on the other types of wood. Once I see that the pores are filled I will then revert to a light sanding between the last few coats.
 
Back at it a bit today. I sanded back the finish once again and then re-applied the poly. When tacky I actually coated it again with the poly in an attempt to get those pores filled. They are getting much smaller so I am hoping this will be the last time to sand it back.
 
I think I'm getting close now to having the pores filled. I have probably done 8-10 coats and sanded back to raw wood 4 times. Today I will sand once again and determine if I need to repeat it once again or push on and part off the bowl. A bit of a slow process based on how fast the poly dries. My shop is usually at about 60F this time of the year so that may slow drying time a bit.
 
A final on lathe sanding today. The bowl has been parted off and the bottom has been dressed. First official coat of Poly has been applied.
 
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