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Discussion in 'Follow Along Projects' started by Glenn McCarron, Dec 9, 2016.
1441, what is the significance of that number?
. A sequence like 4040, 0404, 4004, 0044 or 4400, may indicate that your thoughts are not in unity with Spirit. Similarly, 141, 1441, 1414, 4411, 1144 would suggest what you are thinking is not highest and best for your soul's path
Or, possibly the number of segments in Bob next project.
Stuart, after you said that 1441 may not be best for my soul's path I thought I should Google "Significance of 1441" to find out what it really meant (or according to Google or some unknown bazaar website). I am quite pleased with the definition they provided and how it relates to my (Glenn's) next project.
ANGEL NUMBER 1441
Number 1441 is a mix of the attributes of number 1 appearing twice, amplifying its vibrations, and the energies of number 4 also appearing twice, doubling its influences. Number 1resonates with new beginnings and projects, self-leadership, inner-strength and assertiveness, uniqueness and individuality, ambition and will power, attainment and happiness. Number 1 tells us that we create our own realities with our thoughts, beliefs and actions prompts us out of our comfort zones. Number 4 relates to working determinedly towards achieving our goals and aspirations. It tells of planning, hard work and effort, building solid foundations, motivation, stability and practicality, system and order and our passion and drive in life. Number 4 also relates to the energies of the Archangels.
Angel Number 1441 encourages progressive change, renewal and growth, and tells you to share your knowledge and wisdom with others in interesting and unique ways. Look to new and different ways to get your work done more effectively and efficiently. Listen to your intuition as your angels are sending you guidance and ushering positive energies towards and around you.
Angel Number 1441 is a message to keep your thoughts positive and optimistic as you undertake an important new project, role or venture. Your positive energies, intentions and actions will manifest your expected results. Trust your angels to deliver all that you will need and expect some well-earned rewards for good work well done. Your angels want you to know that you deserve the very best.
Your thoughts and beliefs are rapidly manifesting into material form; therefore ensure that you keep a positive and optimistic attitude and outlook to ensure that you manifest‘good’. As you create your experiences and realities with your beliefs and thoughts, your positive affirmations, intentions and actions will manifest your results. Working steadily towards your goals using wisdom, patience and determination will see your aspirations come to fruition.
Angel Number 1441 encourages you to keep striving ahead, and don’t take ‘no’ for an answer. You are encouraged to walk through the doors of opportunity that are opening in front of you.
So enough of that. I have come up with my next project and as before I will add lots of pictures and comments on my progress. I only hope that you will comment back on your likes or don't likes as I move along. I will show how I solve a few issues and maybe you have a better idea that you can share with me and the Woodturner Pro community.
As Stuart had said 1441 represents the number of segments in my project. It has a 4 inch base, a 9 inch brim and is made up of 1 solid base plus 24 .187 (3/16) rows of 60 segment rings. I will use Cherry, Yellow heart, Wenge, Tulip wood and Padauk.
I liked the design element that 60 segments provided and I initially wanted to do 1/4 rings but the overall height of my bowl I did not like. So using Segment Pro I was able to very easily scale my project down and come up with a more pleasing shape.
Here is some screen shots of my plan,
Comments, critique, suggestions, hints, jigs are all wanted and appreciated.
I should have mentioned that my biggest segment ring to date was 48 segments so I wanted to try even more to see how I handle it.
I also missed one wood type and that is maple.
My first step is to make the waste block. Might sound insignificant but for my process of putting together the rings and getting them centred it is imperative. I take my block of wood, rough cut on the bandsaw and then I roughly centre it against my jaws (not in) and tighten up the tailstock. This centre point is important to keep centring it as I add each layer. Then with just a friction fit I turn the bottom flat and add the tenon. Once this is done I turn it around, this time in the jaws and flatten the bottom so I can add the first solid ring.
I do this process as I do not have a second chuck or the ability to add a faceplate to the tailstock. Maybe I will add the Oneway Live Centre system to my tools soon.
Glenn, be sure and keep a copy of your find for the number 1441 with the positive energy to go with the finished piece. This is a very ambitious project and I'm looking forward to the updates. The Oneway live center with the faceplate adapter is worth the money.
Next up was to do a test ring. Using my Segeasy sled and my digital protractor I set the fences to a total of 6 degrees. I used some scrap and cut 60 segments to do a test fit. I was pleased that my first run was a good fit. I really want to order the segeasy wedges but they only go to 48 segments and not 60. It's a great system.
I'm very anxious to follow along on this journey, Glenn. As you can tell by the number of views to your Eagle Bowl project, there is a big demand for 'build along' projects. Besides, I get to be in the QA seat now. :->
Lloyd, like I had mentioned before, doing the follow along is like having extra eyes on what you are doing. Fellow members are great with sharing ideas and giving vital critique where needed. It is also great to be able to bounce ideas off other experienced members.
Glenn, do you have a set of centering blocks or do you make them up as you go along?
Not sure what you mean by centering Blocks. If your referring to the circles I use to hold the ring round then I do make them as I go. It is easier to clamp the ring and fit the circle so that it is fairly snug. If it is slightly big then the segments do not get squeezed together enough, so better slightly smaller than to big. I also put a wrap of scotch tape around the circle so the glue does not stick.
Next up was cutting some stock. The first 3 rows required some wider stock ( 1 3/8) but the balance will be 3/4 or smaller. I plane my stock to be slightly thicker than what is required to allow for flattening on the lathe. My rings need to be .187 (3/16) thick so I planed then to about .210.
One issue that I ran up against in a previous project was how to ensure that the segments are in line, meaning that each joint is perfectly pointing to the centre of the circle. On one occasion the segments were slightly slewed or on a tangent and not pointing to the centre. This makes it very difficult to align the rows if it is not straight.
I would be interested in knowing how others do their glue-ups to make them tight and with straight radial lines.
Here is what I came up with.
Since I use a centre circle to help form the ring it has a centre hole that is a product of making the circle on my sanding disc jig.
I designed a stick that pivots on the centre hole and is cut in line with the centre hole. It also has a cut away on the bottom to make a bit of a fence to come up against the segments. I apply glue to the segments in groups. Since my bowl design is in a six pattern I glue groups of 10 segments. I position the group on the centre circle then with my jig I push it against the segments to align them. You will see in the pictures. My jig needs to be adjusted each time the centre disc gets bigger so it will be cut away as the bowl gets bigger. It is only a scrap so not expensive.
So Ring #2 is glued, flattened and added to the base block. Ring #1 is the solid base block.
Glenn do you still use the a clamping system to hold them flat while the glue is drying
I too like to see these processes followed out by others, i will be following this project with you, please keep up the post, its very interesting.
Glenn, I don't know why I sent block instead of disc but I do like the idea.
Hi Bob, like you had reminded me and I did omit, once I have the segments glued I also use a larger disc to hold down the segments to ensure the overall ring is flat. I will get a picture on the next ring that is only minutes away. I just finished cutting segments for ring #6 so I will show others what I mean.