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Open Segment Project - Acoma

Turned and sanded the ID up to row 18 this morning.
Got rows 19, 20, 21 & row 22 is on and drying. After facing I put on 23 & 24 tonight.

The ID starts pulling in at 24 so it looks like it's time to finish turn and sand up to 23.
It'll be slower from there as I don't want the ID to get to small to get at the previous rows so I'll put on two row and then finish two rows. We are getting close where I get to try a solid ring with the new fixture.
That should be interesting
IMG_20170327_171631728.jpg

That should be interesting
 
Bob Beaupre said:
Mike let me know if you need any additional information, I'll be glad to help
Click to expand...
Bob, got your zip file for the sketchup drawing. Looks good.

By any chance do you have a parts list for the jig? I am looking to build a non motorized (not pc controlled), jig this summer. Mainly interested in your parts for the vertical rack and the stops to hold in at heights.
 
mfisher said:
Bob, got your zip file for the sketchup drawing. Looks good.

By any chance do you have a parts list for the jig? I am looking to build a non motorized (not pc controlled), jig this summer. Mainly interested in your parts for the vertical rack and the stops to hold in at heights.
Click to expand...

Mike for the vertical rack I used Linear rails and bearings from Title: Phidgets Inc. - Unique and Easy to Use USB Interfaces

The two rails are: Title: Phidgets Inc. - LMN4002_0 - Linear Shaft 16-1000mm they were 10.00 each
The four bearings are: Title: Phidgets Inc. - LMN4219_0 - Flanged Linear Bearing for 16mm Shaft they were $4.10 each
The Rail/shaft supports are: Title: Phidgets Inc. - LMN4223_0 - Shaft Support (Pillow) for 16mm Shaft (2pcs) you need four of then they come in pairs so you need two packs at $3.55 each

I put a toggle clamp on the side for easy temporary clamping, it puts some side push and moves the support a little so I only use to make adjustments once those are locked in I release this temporary toggle. For the main lock of the vertical rack I just use a T-rail from Woodcraft and a angle bracket

I can take some close up pictures of things if that would help.

Also, if you pull the sketchup drawing apart you will notice that the 3/4" MDF base is two layers of MDF, I wanted the base really solid as I put two 3/4" flanged bronze bushing in it of the shaft to turn on. Not shown on the sketchup drawing is a third 3/4" flanged bronze bushing separated from the base. In between I have my timing gear for the attachment to the stepper motor
 
Thanks Bob for your list. It will help in my build. I know when I do mine it will be a manual turn.
I have been looking at the vids from this site.: I basically want a pretty simple jig to build. Your list of materials will help.
Title: Open Segment Jig
 
Mike an option to the index plat are timing belts. You count the number of cogs on the belt that you want to use and then make a disk that fit it.
Here are a couple of pictures:
IMG_0202.JPG IMG_0200.JPG
 
Bob, your piece is looking great. For me watching the pattern come out almost feels like watching my kid grow up :)
 
Tom Lohman said:
Bob, your piece is looking great. For me watching the pattern come out almost feels like watching my kid grow up :)
Click to expand...
Tom the more I work on this one the more I'm liking it. The pattern and colors are coming out great. I'm hoping I picked a profile good enough for the pattern.

Row 26 is on and it's pulling in.
IMG_20170329_191013007.jpg
 
Looking very good.

Is your open segment jig nuclear powered? Noticed the radiation sign.:eek::)
 
Some inside turning this morning on the inside corner.
I didn't sleep well last night thinking about this in the morning
IMG_20170331_100524326.jpg

Now I'm up to row 32
IMG_20170331_145224583.jpg

Two more open segment rows the I get to try a solid segment row on top

Debating between 60 or 48
What do you think?
 
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