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Table Saw Sled for Open Segment Vessels

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Lloyd Johnson

Lloyd Johnson

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This video tutorial shows you how to construct a table saw sled for cutting segments - primarily for open segment vessels, although you can use it to cut segments for closed segments just as easily. Attached is a five-page PDF file containing measured drawings and full-sized drilling templates. Here are some features of the sled:

Safety:
  • Your fingers are never closer than 3" from an exposed blade
  • Cutoff segments are not trapped but instead, fall away from the blade
  • Blade is buried after all cuts

Speed:
  • Cut multiple segments at a time
  • Lower flip-stop to quickly and accurately position wood and then raise to make cut
  • Switch between cutting angles in seconds
  • Measured drawing plan has three pages of full-sized templates that allow you to add a new preset angle quickly and accurately

Versatile:
  • Create a preset for as many angles as you like
  • Cut up to four segments at a time
  • A zero-degree angle lets you make straight crosscuts on tiny pieces of wood

NOTE: the Drill Master set should be available at any Harbor Freight store but is usually found in the plumbing products and sells for about $13.

CLICK HERE to watch the video at Youtube.

CLICK HERE to view various options for purchasing SegEasy plates and/or the Stomper.

CLICK HERE to watch the Stomper video at Youtube.
 

Attachments

  • Table Saw Sled.pdf
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Last edited:
Thanks. Can hardly wait. I got all the hardware that was in the beta version and just waiting to start building with the new video
 
The video is now live. Enjoy and please let me know if you have any questions. Also, please give comments as to how to improve future videos and also suggestions for future tutorials.

Lloyd
 
Thanks, Lloyd, for a great sled design. I'm in the process of making mine now.

One possible modification to your design - could you replace the 1/4" rod between the flip stop and the stop block with a #10-32 tpi rod and make the length adjustment by threading or unthreading it through either one or two threaded inserts in the flip stop? That way, one full turn of the stop block would be exactly 1/32" and you could adjust by 1/4 of that by turning the stop block just 1/4th of a complete rotation. Just a thought.

Thanks.
 
I think its an excellent idea, John. I would probably tap just the first 1" of the flip block and then drill out the remainder of that hole and epoxy it to the stop. However, if you angle the stop to be parallel to the saw kerf, you would always have to turn the stop in a complete revolution. Since that is only 1/32", though, there would never be a time that you would need to have less than 1/32" so that wouldn't stop me at all.

The other benefit to the threaded rod is that you could eliminate the knurled knob on the flip block as the stop would not be able to rotate unless you choose to rotate it and the threads would keep it in place.

Thanks for the excellent idea. That's why I love forums.

Lloyd
 
Thanks, Lloyd.
I was planning to use two threaded inserts, one in each end of the flip block so I could turn one slightly to adjust the amount of friction on the threaded rod to prevent it from being too loose or too tight.

Lloyd Johnson said:
I think its an excellent idea, John. I would probably tap just the first 1" of the flip block and then drill out the remainder of that hole and epoxy it to the stop. However, if you angle the stop to be parallel to the saw kerf, you would always have to turn the stop in a complete revolution. Since that is only 1/32", though, there would never be a time that you would need to have less than 1/32" so that wouldn't stop me at all.

The other benefit to the threaded rod is that you could eliminate the knurled knob on the flip block as the stop would not be able to rotate unless you choose to rotate it and the threads would keep it in place.

Thanks for the excellent idea. That's why I love forums.

Lloyd
Click to expand...
 
Quick question...
on the closed segment page there are 7 kerf lines. Should there be and if so which one goes to which degree mark and how would you do this with a fixed sled. Meaning, with only two miter slots how would account for 7 positions?
 
If I understand your question right, any of the parallel kerf lines may be used with any of the angles. You may choose which kerf line to use when you are making your sled. It depends on the dimensions or your particular saw. When I made my sled I used several of the kerf lines to position the ends of the angle lines where I wanted them to be. I wanted the thread inserts to not be too close together. Hope this helps and is not confusing.
 
John,

You said it perfectly. I added the multiple kerfs for the reason you mentioned so by choosing any of the kerf lines, the threaded inserts don't get too close together and the second reason was to allow each of the different angles to have their own zero clearance entry into the fence. If multiple angles enter the fence at the same place, the entrance gets sloppy and that when you get fuzzies (this is a technical term) on the segments. So by simply choosing one kerf over another will simply move the inserts for that angle to the left or right.

One of my better ideas, if I do say so myself. Most of my ideas are simply bat crazy. ;->

Lloyd
 
lynntrump said:
Unable to open the attachment for the sled.
Lynn Trump
Click to expand...

Hi Lynn,

The download is simply a .pdf file so you need to have a pdf reader installed. The free Adobe Reader is your best bet. You can download it by clicking HERE. When you go to this link, make sure you uncheck the box for the 'Additional Offer'. If you don't, it will install McAfee's virus protection software.

If you already have a pdf reader installed, you probably have an incorrect setting on your computer that attempts to open a different application when a .pdf file is downloaded or double-clicked. If this is the problem, click the 'Contact Us' button at the bottom of the page and email me your phone number and I'll give you a hand to resolve this.

Lloyd
 
I noticed that on page 3 of the PDF file the you have 5.5 degrees for the 24 segments and on page 5 you have 7.5 degrees for the same 24 segment.
 
pblack said:
I noticed that on page 3 of the PDF file the you have 5.5 degrees for the 24 segments and on page 5 you have 7.5 degrees for the same 24 segment.
Click to expand...

Page 5 of the document shows the calculations for 'Closed Segment' angles. If you are making 24-segment rows using closed segments, the angle is 7.5 degrees (360 divided by 24 divided by 2). That page provides a template for drilling holes in the jig for the most popular number of segments.

Page 3 is for 'Open Segment' angles. Since the gap for the 24-segment SegEasy plate is 4 degrees, the calculation is as follows: 360 degrees minus 96 (4 degrees * 24) = 264. 264 divided by 24 divided by 2 = 5.5 degrees.

Likewise, the 18-segment SegEasy plate has 4 degree gaps so the calculation is as follows: 360 - 72 (4 degrees times 18) = 288. 288 divided by 18 divided by 2 = 8 degrees.

I hope that helps.

Lloyd
 
I have just replaced the PDF file in the initial thread with a new version that adds drilling locations for all of the configurations of SegEasy plates that are for sale on my site:
12/8 - 11 degrees
16/6 - 8.25 degrees
18/4 - 8 degrees
24/4 - 5.5 degrees

Lloyd
 
Lloyd, Thank you for all your work on the sled and the software. It sure makes segmenting a lot easier. My question, can you add the information for 48 segments? Thank again.
Pete Black
 
Glad to help, Pete. I have now updated the PDF file attachment on the first message in this thread to include drilling locations for a 48-segment, 2 degree plate. Hopefully, I will have these for sale in June.
Lloyd
 
I have a question. Can I make the sled 17" without changing the geometry of the drill holes? The 3/8" by 3/4" UHMW sticks are sold in 36" lengths and 1 stick would yield the two sticks required, but I like a little overhang when building my sleds.

What say you?
 
Hi, the pdf seems to be broken. I am able to download it, but it will not open. I have other pdf files that do open just fine.

Do you happen to have a another link somewhere else?

Thanks
 
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