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Are you looking for a coupon code to buy my software? You can get one from lots of 3rd party sites but they won't work. My software never goes on sale and has never been discounted. The only coupon codes that are given is when I give a club presentation and I offer a discount to the attendees. Other than that, everyone pays the same price.
Longworth Chuck
- Thread starter bmoore80
- Start date
I'm receiving a partial order this week. If they are not able to fulfill my entire order this week, they said they will have the remainder within two weeks. I have posted the new prices in the purchasing page of the Stomper, but I'm not encouraging anyone to make a purchase until I have them available to ship.
Fortunately, it won't be long. I'm also working on some new videos to support the new product line.
Lloyd
Fortunately, it won't be long. I'm also working on some new videos to support the new product line.
Lloyd
augustrosemary
PRO Member
Lloyd,
I have just received the Segeasy plates and I have my Stomper constructed. Now working on making the Longworth Chuck. I presume this will be used for making the closed segment rings? So how many points does one need to put in place. If actually using it on the lathe I would make at least 8 points but since it will not be holding anything only aligning the ring, how many do I need? Maybe 4 is all that is needed, not sure! I have constructed the Driskell jig and it seems to be very accurate with an 18 inch index wheel for 48 segments as per the directions of Denny Edwards, what a slick jig. Check out his site a wealth of information plus lots of videos. Looking forward to the videos for explaining how to use all this stuff as it is a little confusing. As for the Longworth Chuck I would appreciate a little more explanation on its construction for use with the Stomper. I just purchased some carbide turning tools ffrom Capt. Eddie, What fantastic products and at very reasonable prices. Has anyone else had the opportunity to use his products? If not give it a try, Big Guy productions!! Well thanks for any info it is all appreciated, Thanks Augie
I have just received the Segeasy plates and I have my Stomper constructed. Now working on making the Longworth Chuck. I presume this will be used for making the closed segment rings? So how many points does one need to put in place. If actually using it on the lathe I would make at least 8 points but since it will not be holding anything only aligning the ring, how many do I need? Maybe 4 is all that is needed, not sure! I have constructed the Driskell jig and it seems to be very accurate with an 18 inch index wheel for 48 segments as per the directions of Denny Edwards, what a slick jig. Check out his site a wealth of information plus lots of videos. Looking forward to the videos for explaining how to use all this stuff as it is a little confusing. As for the Longworth Chuck I would appreciate a little more explanation on its construction for use with the Stomper. I just purchased some carbide turning tools ffrom Capt. Eddie, What fantastic products and at very reasonable prices. Has anyone else had the opportunity to use his products? If not give it a try, Big Guy productions!! Well thanks for any info it is all appreciated, Thanks Augie
Hi Augie,
Since the Longworth device is used for centering and not holding, it is only necessary to have enough points to properly center the ring. Four points works great for this unless you're centering rings whose segments can't be evenly divided by four. Still, I've used it to center rings with seven sides and eighteen sides and it still works well enough that it hasn't been an issue.
The biggest question you need to address is how you plan on having the studs go through the two plates. On the one I am now selling, I used hex bolts that sit on top of the work surface and ride inside a channel that has been sized for this purpose. This took a lot of effort and trial and error with CNCs to accomplish, though. Our member Steve recently posted some pictures of a Longworth centering device he design that I think is an excellent idea in that the studs are designed to go completely through both plates and are stopped both below the bottom and above the top plate with hex nuts or wing-nuts. This just means that the plates themselves become the work surface as opposed to having the plates sit on top of a work surface. Here is a link to the post that Steve made that has pictures of his device:
http://http://woodturnerpro.com/segment-stomper/216-segment-stomper-closed-rings.html
I have used an approach similar to Steve's with good success and it is an easy way to proceed as the arcs in both the top and bottom plates are cut at the same time.
There has been a great deal of work done on Longworth chucks and I don't have a recommendation on how best to make one yourself. If you do a Google search, though, you will find a lot of tutorials on building one. Most of them, though, are designed to be mounted to a lathe for use as a substitute for Cole Jaws. At one time, I sold mine for this purpose as well until I saw a picture of a fellow using it in an incredibly unsafe manner. I then decided to only make software and hardware for sale that cannot be used incorrectly as the liability issue is scary. It is hard to get hurt using my software unless you get so frustrated that you throw your computer out the window and hit someone who is walking by at that minute and I'll take my chances with that one.
Good luck with your design. Once you start centering closed rings with a Longworth centering approach, you'll never go back.
Lloyd
Since the Longworth device is used for centering and not holding, it is only necessary to have enough points to properly center the ring. Four points works great for this unless you're centering rings whose segments can't be evenly divided by four. Still, I've used it to center rings with seven sides and eighteen sides and it still works well enough that it hasn't been an issue.
The biggest question you need to address is how you plan on having the studs go through the two plates. On the one I am now selling, I used hex bolts that sit on top of the work surface and ride inside a channel that has been sized for this purpose. This took a lot of effort and trial and error with CNCs to accomplish, though. Our member Steve recently posted some pictures of a Longworth centering device he design that I think is an excellent idea in that the studs are designed to go completely through both plates and are stopped both below the bottom and above the top plate with hex nuts or wing-nuts. This just means that the plates themselves become the work surface as opposed to having the plates sit on top of a work surface. Here is a link to the post that Steve made that has pictures of his device:
http://http://woodturnerpro.com/segment-stomper/216-segment-stomper-closed-rings.html
I have used an approach similar to Steve's with good success and it is an easy way to proceed as the arcs in both the top and bottom plates are cut at the same time.
There has been a great deal of work done on Longworth chucks and I don't have a recommendation on how best to make one yourself. If you do a Google search, though, you will find a lot of tutorials on building one. Most of them, though, are designed to be mounted to a lathe for use as a substitute for Cole Jaws. At one time, I sold mine for this purpose as well until I saw a picture of a fellow using it in an incredibly unsafe manner. I then decided to only make software and hardware for sale that cannot be used incorrectly as the liability issue is scary. It is hard to get hurt using my software unless you get so frustrated that you throw your computer out the window and hit someone who is walking by at that minute and I'll take my chances with that one.
Good luck with your design. Once you start centering closed rings with a Longworth centering approach, you'll never go back.
Lloyd
augustrosemary
PRO Member
Lloyd,
Thanks for the reply, I checked out the Longworth Chuck by Steve and think I have a good handle on what do do, this will help alot. As for my other quesdtion, will you still be doing the instruction video covering the use of the Segeasy Plates, Stomper and the Lonworth Chuck. I think seeing this in action will greatly enhance my quest for making an open segmented bowl. I believe you are correct once I use the Longworth Chuck with the Stomper for aligning my rings I will never go back to anything else. It seems like a faily foolproof method of getting the task accomplished while still be able to have fun. Thanks again, Augie
Thanks for the reply, I checked out the Longworth Chuck by Steve and think I have a good handle on what do do, this will help alot. As for my other quesdtion, will you still be doing the instruction video covering the use of the Segeasy Plates, Stomper and the Lonworth Chuck. I think seeing this in action will greatly enhance my quest for making an open segmented bowl. I believe you are correct once I use the Longworth Chuck with the Stomper for aligning my rings I will never go back to anything else. It seems like a faily foolproof method of getting the task accomplished while still be able to have fun. Thanks again, Augie
Augie,
In a couple days, I'll have a video posted that shows how to setup the Longworth Centering Attachment.
I'm also nearly finished with some videos that will show how I design a vessel for the Stomper/SegEasy system and then how I cut the segments using a miter saw. This will be followed by a video that shows cutting segments on a table saw. Then I'll do a video on using the Stomper/SegEasy for assembly and then one on turning. Finally, I'll have a video showing a photo booth you can build.
On each of my videos, I'll be showing some techniques that have some innovations in them. I'm never short of ideas, although there are many times where I'm short on good ideas.
I wish there were a few more hours per week that I could spend in the shop, but as I still work during the day, I'm limited. This darned working for a living is sure a nuisance. :-< Retirement is close, though. :->
Lloyd
In a couple days, I'll have a video posted that shows how to setup the Longworth Centering Attachment.
I'm also nearly finished with some videos that will show how I design a vessel for the Stomper/SegEasy system and then how I cut the segments using a miter saw. This will be followed by a video that shows cutting segments on a table saw. Then I'll do a video on using the Stomper/SegEasy for assembly and then one on turning. Finally, I'll have a video showing a photo booth you can build.
On each of my videos, I'll be showing some techniques that have some innovations in them. I'm never short of ideas, although there are many times where I'm short on good ideas.
I wish there were a few more hours per week that I could spend in the shop, but as I still work during the day, I'm limited. This darned working for a living is sure a nuisance. :-< Retirement is close, though. :->
Lloyd
John Payton
PRO Member
And you have no idea how close that has come sometimes...throwing the stupid computer out the window..!!..luckily I have a good size front yard, so it would be really hard to get all the way to the street to accidently hit someone who happens to be strolling by 
John Payton
PRO Member
Ahhhh, retirement...such a happy thought..!!..I just crossed the line to what i consider the downhill path...364 days left before I leave it all to the younger generation
augustrosemary
PRO Member
Lloyd & John,
I understand perfectly about the retirement status and very soon I will cross the threshold and never come out of my shop!! Well, that is what I'm saying to myself but not quite true!! I can hardly wait for the videos that will show me what I know but just having a hard time putting it into practice. So, I do believe the videos will help me cross the barrier and make every thing make sense. I'm still constructing my drum sander and almost have that completed just need to take it out of my head and cut the lumber and so forth and so on. Lloyd do you still have plans for the band saw bowl jig or is that on the way back burner? One more question when cutting the inside of the open segmented bowl are you using a round carbide cutter or a tear drop scraper from Sorby? I have read where both are being used and that is what I shall probably do. I have just purchased the radius cutter from Capt Eddie and it cuts like a gem. Has anyone else tried his products?? They are sweet cutting tolls at about half the price and he himself has some fantastic videos
Ok, I shall be patient and wait for the video productions to be finished and I know this will be a great help. I constructed my Longworth Chuck, thanks to you and Steve and I think it will work out fine. In fact instead of using a router I laid out my pattern to the desired circumference, trued it up and placed my blown up pattern on my baltic birch and cut it out after drilling each end with a scroll saw. It worked like a charm! I recessed out the bottom ply so my bolt would ride flush and the jig would lie flat on the table.
Thanks gain, Augie, Colorado Springs, Co
I understand perfectly about the retirement status and very soon I will cross the threshold and never come out of my shop!! Well, that is what I'm saying to myself but not quite true!! I can hardly wait for the videos that will show me what I know but just having a hard time putting it into practice. So, I do believe the videos will help me cross the barrier and make every thing make sense. I'm still constructing my drum sander and almost have that completed just need to take it out of my head and cut the lumber and so forth and so on. Lloyd do you still have plans for the band saw bowl jig or is that on the way back burner? One more question when cutting the inside of the open segmented bowl are you using a round carbide cutter or a tear drop scraper from Sorby? I have read where both are being used and that is what I shall probably do. I have just purchased the radius cutter from Capt Eddie and it cuts like a gem. Has anyone else tried his products?? They are sweet cutting tolls at about half the price and he himself has some fantastic videos
Ok, I shall be patient and wait for the video productions to be finished and I know this will be a great help. I constructed my Longworth Chuck, thanks to you and Steve and I think it will work out fine. In fact instead of using a router I laid out my pattern to the desired circumference, trued it up and placed my blown up pattern on my baltic birch and cut it out after drilling each end with a scroll saw. It worked like a charm! I recessed out the bottom ply so my bolt would ride flush and the jig would lie flat on the table.
Thanks gain, Augie, Colorado Springs, Co
Augie,
It sounds like you've got a real winner with your Longworth attachment. I'll be anxious to hear how it works for you.
My jig for making a Bowl from a Board is going to have to be on the back burner for now. I suspect I will go into production on it myself with a CNC I plan to get at retirement. I think you'll like the design once you see it. It is certainly the safest, fastest and most accurate way to make these bowls and I'm kinda surprised I never seen this idea done before. The jig will be the easy part, though. I first have to write the software that will let you design a curved wall profile and then it will create a template that is used on the jig to make the cuts at the right location and angle. The software itself will also be easy, but I also want you to be able to import a picture of a board and see what it will look like in 3D after the BiaB procedure.
Lloyd
It sounds like you've got a real winner with your Longworth attachment. I'll be anxious to hear how it works for you.
My jig for making a Bowl from a Board is going to have to be on the back burner for now. I suspect I will go into production on it myself with a CNC I plan to get at retirement. I think you'll like the design once you see it. It is certainly the safest, fastest and most accurate way to make these bowls and I'm kinda surprised I never seen this idea done before. The jig will be the easy part, though. I first have to write the software that will let you design a curved wall profile and then it will create a template that is used on the jig to make the cuts at the right location and angle. The software itself will also be easy, but I also want you to be able to import a picture of a board and see what it will look like in 3D after the BiaB procedure.
Lloyd
augustrosemary
PRO Member
Hi Lloyd,
I believe we had spoken of your jig about a year ago and you had shown me some pictures, looked very promising. I love to make bowls and follow the instructions of Carole Rothman using the scroll saw which opens up a pletheria of ideas and possibilities for designs. I also use the Ring Master which is very simple to use and it's self contained and has a lot of advantages to the scroll saw method. Any way looking forward to your new invention.
Keep up the great work, Augie
I believe we had spoken of your jig about a year ago and you had shown me some pictures, looked very promising. I love to make bowls and follow the instructions of Carole Rothman using the scroll saw which opens up a pletheria of ideas and possibilities for designs. I also use the Ring Master which is very simple to use and it's self contained and has a lot of advantages to the scroll saw method. Any way looking forward to your new invention.
Keep up the great work, Augie
Hi Doyle,
I just started shipping the new Longworth Centering Attachment two days ago. You can reach the page that describes the different kits and their pricing at this link:
http://woodturnerpro.com/content/191-purchase-segment-stomper.html
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Lloyd Johnson
I just started shipping the new Longworth Centering Attachment two days ago. You can reach the page that describes the different kits and their pricing at this link:
http://woodturnerpro.com/content/191-purchase-segment-stomper.html
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Lloyd Johnson
John Payton
PRO Member
OK, well...Googling "ringmaster" certainly brings up some interesting topics....might suggest Googling "ringmaster lathes" if you are interesting in woodturning
Johnrheyd
PRO Member
Got mine in the mail today - quick work putting it together. I read the e-mail about using rubber bands when assembling but I simply finger added four 1/4-20 nuts to keep the bolts in place while I turned the bottom plate over, then removed them and added the top plate. Works great - a little tight on the small end of the arc but I"m sure it will loosen with use. I think I"ll add the lub as suggested. Suggestion on the paper cover - I removed the paper from the discs which touch - between the two plates, this allowed the two to slide much easier - the paper does present a bit of friction. I left the top layer on for the glue protection even through I typically use wax paper all the time for cleanliness. Thanks again Lloyd for a nother great tool.