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I am stuck , using WTP in the design of a stave lid.

sbecrafty

PRO Member
I have tried to cut a compound staved lid at 30 deg. I payed close attention to my saw set up using a digital angle meter for the blade tilt and a Incra miter guage.
After several attempts i feel i should ask the skilled for advice and to point out my errors. I cut my test pieces to length and width and made my compound and miter cuts, failed. I have also tried cutting them from oversized pieces still a no go. Any suggestions would help. I am only a yearling to wood turning i have 0 problems with segmenting it is just these dang compounds that have me in a dizzle.

UrnLidSegVw.pngUrnLid Stave(1).pngUrnLidDataSpec.pngUrnLidCutOrd..png
 
I have not messed with compound segments in years. I found one video of someone who built a jig for cutting compound segments.
Hopefully some others will post with more info.

 
Once you learn what you have now learned, cutting staves the traditional way is not overly difficult but it is a bit time consuming to make the jigs, etc.

When you’re making a ring such as you have shown, there is a much faster and simpler way to make the ring and the beauty of it is that when you finish making the cuts, the ring is already flat on the top and the bottom. This is called the wedge system because you make a wedge to support your board on your miter saw at the desired slope angle. This means you don’t tilt the blade and you use the standard angle you would use if you were cutting ‘flat’ segments.

To use this method, use the ‘Compound’ ring type as you have done. You have specified 30 degrees and so you will make an 18” wide 3-sided wedge with 30, 60 and 90 degree angles. Here is a link to a thread where I go into detail about cutting and using the wedge approach:

I use the traditional method of ripping staves and I use the wedge approach for crosscutting staves and it depends on the ring to make the decision of which method to use. When the ring is short as yours is, I always use the wedge approach and leave the traditional stave approach to the times when the ring will be tall (taller than about 2-1/2”).

For the wedge technique, I have two wedges - 30/60/90 and 40/50/90. With these two wedges, I can make ‘stave’ rings that are 30, 40, 50 or 60 degrees slopes and I design the vessel so that I can use one of these 4 angles and it takes only minutes to make one of these rings.

Lloyd
 
Once you learn what you have now learned, cutting staves the traditional way is not overly difficult but it is a bit time consuming to make the jigs, etc.

When you’re making a ring such as you have shown, there is a much faster and simpler way to make the ring and the beauty of it is that when you finish making the cuts, the ring is already flat on the top and the bottom. This is called the wedge system because you make a wedge to support your board on your miter saw at the desired slope angle. This means you don’t tilt the blade and you use the standard angle you would use if you were cutting ‘flat’ segments.

To use this method, use the ‘Compound’ ring type as you have done. You have specified 30 degrees and so you will make an 18” wide 3-sided wedge with 30, 60 and 90 degree angles. Here is a link to a thread where I go into detail about cutting and using the wedge approach:

I use the traditional method of ripping staves and I use the wedge approach for crosscutting staves and it depends on the ring to make the decision of which method to use. When the ring is short as yours is, I always use the wedge approach and leave the traditional stave approach to the times when the ring will be tall (taller than about 2-1/2”).

For the wedge technique, I have two wedges - 30/60/90 and 40/50/90. With these two wedges, I can make ‘stave’ rings that are 30, 40, 50 or 60 degrees slopes and I design the vessel so that I can use one of these 4 angles and it takes only minutes to make one of these rings.

Lloyd
That is some very helpful guidance , Thank you !
 
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