Segmented Pro question

mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
Jim.
Changing board width will not change the design Go ahead and play with changing your board width in lamination wizard.
What will change the design is the miter angle

When you change the width of the lamination, you could end up with a lamination not wide enough the pattern.
In your Urn feature ring you were wanting the ring to be 1.5" thick.
Looks like a 2 1/2 inch laminated board is the minimum to get a 1.5 x 5.5 diamond pattern .

No. in the lamination wizard it is the board width. Forget the thickness. It is not important in LP. (refer to your post 78)
 

mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
Jim
Finally (I hope), if my feature ring needs a board width of 1.75" (give or take) do I have to double up all my boards ( 1" thick + 1" thick = 2" which would be the ring width. OD - ID)? Or find thicker boards.

Before I answer that I need to know what is the dimensions of your walnut and maple boards you are going to use in making the featured ring.
Not what we are entering in the software. What is the length, thickness and width of the board?

For some reason I thought you posted somewhere that the boards are .94 inches thick.

Your WTP Urn plan summary sheet tells you how thick, wide and length of a board you need for each ring.
 

Jim Grieco

PRO Member
Jim


Before I answer that I need to know what is the dimensions of your walnut and maple boards you are going to use in making the featured ring.
Not what we are entering in the software. What is the length, thickness and width of the board?

For some reason I thought you posted somewhere that the boards are .94 inches thick.

Your WTP Urn plan summary sheet tells you how thick, wide and length of a board you need for each ring.
Then what do I do to make sure the end product (feature ring) has the segment board with I need? I have random cut-offs of these species of wood all different sizes. I do have some stuff that is .94" thick but I also have some pieces that are thicker. The widths vary also.
If I use the .94 thick wood then my ring segment width will only be that. Since this is my first segmented piece I designed it with wider seg board widths as a cushion. I have the piece roughly finished up to where the feature ring will be and the wall thickness is about 1/4". Do you feel I'll have enough to work with if I use the .94 thick boards? If not then I just need to use thicker boards?
Thank you for all your help!
 

mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
Then what do I do to make sure the end product (feature ring) has the segment board with I need? I have random cut-offs of these species of wood all different sizes. I do have some stuff that is .94" thick but I also have some pieces that are thicker. The widths vary also.
If I use the .94 thick wood then my ring segment width will only be that. Since this is my first segmented piece I designed it with wider seg board widths as a cushion. I have the piece roughly finished up to where the feature ring will be and the wall thickness is about 1/4". Do you feel I'll have enough to work with if I use the .94 thick boards? If not then I just need to use thicker boards?
Thank you for all your help!
What you seem to be telling me is your wood is of random width and length but the pieces are all .94" thick. Is that correct?
The reason I asked what your your wood stock size is it would help me in explaining how to build this vessel to you.

I do most of all my turnings using a faceplate. It allows me to mount and unmount the vessel from the lathe. I mount a waste block to the faceplate and turn it round. The base of the vessel is glued onto the waste block and turned down to the final diameter.

Question are you going to use a faceplate for mounting and turning your project?


lets forget the featured ring for a bit.
In WTP the base of your Urn (ring 1) is made of a walnut that is .5 in thick and 5.25" diameter. The base can be one piece of walnut if you have a board wide enough. If not you can make a base out strips glued together to get to the 0.5 x 5.25 dimension.
It can be turned down to the final diameter and thickness..

It is important that you have uniform stock in width and thickness.

Ring 2 is made of cherry (red color wood) . It is a ring that is .94" thick, 6.92 in outside diameter and made of 12 segments.
From the WTP cutting summary it tells me to make ring 2 you would need a board that is 0.94" thick, 2.28" wide and at least 17" in length.
If one does not have a board that long, you can use shorter boards that are of the same thickness and width. You need the length long enough to be able to cut segments that are 1.85" long (Segment Edge Length).

It is important to mill your wood into the width and thickness identified in the WTP cut summary.

Back to LP and your featured ring.
You will need to mill a walnut board to dimensions of 0.94" thickness by 1 1/2 wide and 44" length (LP has it as 43.88).
You will need to mill a maple board to a dimension of 0.94 thickness by 1/2 wide and 44" length.
You will glue these 3 strips into a single board with the maple in the middle producing a board that is .94 inches thick, 3.5" wide and 44" long.
This laminate will produce when cut properly your 6 segment diamonds for the featured ring.

If your boards are not long enough, the go into LP and change the number of repeating units to a lower number. LP will automatically recalculate the length of lamination you need. Look at the bottom of the screen.
 

Jim Grieco

PRO Member
What you seem to be telling me is your wood is of random width and length but the pieces are all .94" thick. Is that correct?
The reason I asked what your your wood stock size is it would help me in explaining how to build this vessel to you.

I do most of all my turnings using a faceplate. It allows me to mount and unmount the vessel from the lathe. I mount a waste block to the faceplate and turn it round. The base of the vessel is glued onto the waste block and turned down to the final diameter.

Question are you going to use a faceplate for mounting and turning your project?

lets forget the featured ring for a bit.
In WTP the base of your Urn (ring 1) is made of a walnut that is .5 in thick and 5.25" diameter. The base can be one piece of walnut if you have a board wide enough. If not you can make a base out strips glued together to get to the 0.5 x 5.25 dimension.
It can be turned down to the final diameter and thickness..

It is important that you have uniform stock in width and thickness.

Ring 2 is made of cherry (red color wood) . It is a ring that is .94" thick, 6.92 in outside diameter and made of 12 segments.
From the WTP cutting summary it tells me to make ring 2 you would need a board that is 0.94" thick, 2.28" wide and at least 17" in length.
If one does not have a board that long, you can use shorter boards that are of the same thickness and width. You need the length long enough to be able to cut segments that are 1.85" long (Segment Edge Length).

It is important to mill your wood into the width and thickness identified in the WTP cut summary.

Back to LP and your featured ring.
You will need to mill a walnut board to dimensions of 0.94" thickness by 1 1/2 wide and 44" length (LP has it as 43.88).
You will need to mill a maple board to a dimension of 0.94 thickness by 1/2 wide and 44" length.
You will glue these 3 strips into a single board with the maple in the middle producing a board that is .94 inches thick, 3.5" wide and 44" long.
This laminate will produce when cut properly your 6 segment diamonds for the featured ring.

If your boards are not long enough, the go into LP and change the number of repeating units to a lower number. LP will automatically recalculate the length of lamination you need. Look at the bottom of the screen.
*I have cut-offs of different thickness, widths and lengths.
My urn is already made up to the feature ring.
I have used the .94 thickness boards cut per WTP specs.
I am using a faceplate with a glue block.
I have already had to cut multiple boards for my other rings because I did not have one piece long enough and it has worked out fine.
I am not sure why you feel that I have not started this when I have already stated I have it made up to the feature ring and that my wall thickness for the urn is roughly 1/4".

I have been stating my concern about whether the .94" thickness of the boards will make wide enough segment widths. *Each completed diamond is a segment and in my design the segment width (not the SEL) is larger than .94" for the feature ring.
I think this conversation has gotten lost in translation. Perhaps I'm just not explaining properly.
I will build the feature ring with the .94 wood and hope for the best.
You have been very helpful. Thank you
 

mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
*I have cut-offs of different thickness, widths and lengths.
My urn is already made up to the feature ring.
I have used the .94 thickness boards cut per WTP specs.
I am using a faceplate with a glue block.
I have already had to cut multiple boards for my other rings because I did not have one piece long enough and it has worked out fine.
I am not sure why you feel that I have not started this when I have already stated I have it made up to the feature ring and that my wall thickness for the urn is roughly 1/4".

I have been stating my concern about whether the .94" thickness of the boards will make wide enough segment widths. *Each completed diamond is a segment and in my design the segment width (not the SEL) is larger than .94" for the feature ring.
I think this conversation has gotten lost in translation. Perhaps I'm just not explaining properly.
I will build the feature ring with the .94 wood and hope for the best.
You have been very helpful. Thank you
Thanks for the reply.
the .94 should be ok. Take look at the cutaway view. in WTP
Good luck.
 

Jim Grieco

PRO Member
Thanks for the reply.
the .94 should be ok. Take look at the cutaway view. in WTP
Good luck.
Mike, I just want to thank you very much for all your patience and help with my questions (and lots of confusion!).
Here is the finished piece. I had to give up on the diamonds. Only 4 of the 6 turned out ok which still was not good enough for me. Since I am going to visit family on Wednesday and needed this done I just went with the solid walnut. I know it is not like my original design but I am still happy with my first segmented piece.
Thanks again!
 

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mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
Mike, I just want to thank you very much for all your patience and help with my questions (and lots of confusion!).
Here is the finished piece. I had to give up on the diamonds. Only 4 of the 6 turned out ok which still was not good enough for me. Since I am going to visit family on Wednesday and needed this done I just went with the solid walnut. I know it is not like my original design but I am still happy with my first segmented piece.
Thanks again!

Your very welcome.
I appreciate when members follow up and post their project.
Your project turned out very nice. I like it.
Diamonds can be a bit of a challenge. There are many ways to build them for segmented bowls. All of them take practice to make each one identical.
 

flkamm

Frank
Yes, Woodturner PRO calculates the volume in real-time just like it does in Segment PRO. You'll see the volume calculation at the bottom of the screen.

A bit of clarity as to why you can't transfer designs between SegPro and WTPro...
Woodturner PRO keeps all details of every row in the file that is saved to the disk. This is what makes the software so flexible in that you are in charge of everything that happens. SegPro, on the other hand, is a rules-based piece of software that does not need to keep track of details by row because the design consists of a Profile with a specific height and the software follows its rules to construct the vessel for you. You are in control of setting the defaults the software uses but beyond that, the software is in charge and that is what makes SegPro so fast and easy to use.

Because the two programs are night and day different, it isn't possible to transfer designs between them. The key is to made the decision before you start as to whether the bowl you are going to design is a 'standard' segmented bowl or a non-standard project where you want to vary details down to the segment level. If it will be 'standard', SegPro will let you design it in far less time than it would take with WTPro. If it is non-standard, WTPro is your only option but it gives you a complete suite of capabilities that far exceeds SegPro.

If you design a Feature Ring in Lamination PRO, that design can be imported into either SegPro (as a species using the 'Export Image' button), or directly into WTPro by first selecting the target row by double-clicking the row and then click the Export to Woodturner PRO button in Lamination PRO and follow the instructions. This is very simple.

I hope that helps.

Lloyd
Being a new software seg turner, I was wondering about importing from WTPro into SegPro. The search feature helps a lot.
 

mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
Being a new software seg turner, I was wondering about importing from WTPro into SegPro. The search feature helps a lot.

You cannot import a WTP project directly into SP. The two software programs have different database structure.

I have found that it is not that difficult to recreate a project going from ST\P to WTP or WTP to SP.
I use the summary sheet as a guide. Keep in mind that SP does not allow the changing of certain ring thickness like WTP does.
 
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