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Are you looking for a coupon code to buy my software? You can get one from lots of 3rd party sites but they won't work. My software never goes on sale and has never been discounted. The only coupon codes that are given is when I give a club presentation and I offer a discount to the attendees. Other than that, everyone pays the same price.
Amount of wood needed.
- Thread starter mjardee
- Start date
Good morning.
The link below takes you to a cut list optimizer. That may be what you are looking for. There are others available for free use on the web if you do a cut list optimizer search.
www.cutlistoptimizer.com
I tend to overbuild a bit on my bowls. With that a lot of my segments being .125, .25, .5, or .75 in thickness and .75 to 1 inch in width. I will mill up a 2 to 3 foot long board to the width and thickness and keep them in stock. When it comes to doing a new bowl, I select the wood from the supply
It is a nice feature that both WTP and SP gives you the minimum board length required to cut the number of segments. You should always add a few inches to the length for safety and being to hold the wood while cutting the segment.
The link below takes you to a cut list optimizer. That may be what you are looking for. There are others available for free use on the web if you do a cut list optimizer search.
CutList Optimizer
Online panel cutting optimization software. Generate optimized cutting patterns based on the available stock sheets by nesting the required parts.
www.cutlistoptimizer.com
I tend to overbuild a bit on my bowls. With that a lot of my segments being .125, .25, .5, or .75 in thickness and .75 to 1 inch in width. I will mill up a 2 to 3 foot long board to the width and thickness and keep them in stock. When it comes to doing a new bowl, I select the wood from the supply
It is a nice feature that both WTP and SP gives you the minimum board length required to cut the number of segments. You should always add a few inches to the length for safety and being to hold the wood while cutting the segment.
Ken Sherwin
PRO Member
I tried the cutlist method but always had several pieces of wood left that were just barely too small to use but too big to toss. I have 2 saws so I set one up to rip and one to crosscut segments then sort my rings data by board width. Being lazy, I try to keep all my ring heights the same and if I can't, I cut the skinny one to full height and face it down to the right height after gluing. I cut my slab to a convenient length, generally 24 to 36", then rip my widest board width stick and crosscut it into segments. If I need more segments that size, I rip another stick off and finish the run of segments. Since the segments and the stick never come out even, I rip what's left down to the next narrower board width and make those segments. I keep ripping and crosscutting until I have all the segments made. Looking at the scrap, I only have the very short handles from each stick some narrow strips left that are the difference in width between two adjacent board widths and some as useful as paint stirrers.
Doing it this way, I take the board width times the board length of each ring and add them up to get total net area. Divide that by the width of the stock I will use gives the minimum stock I need so I add 10" for saw kerf and a few slivers of waste then add 6" for handles in the wedgie sled because I keep my fingers away from the blade.
This technique hasn't shorted me or left me with a big pile of pieces that are barely too small to use.
Doing it this way, I take the board width times the board length of each ring and add them up to get total net area. Divide that by the width of the stock I will use gives the minimum stock I need so I add 10" for saw kerf and a few slivers of waste then add 6" for handles in the wedgie sled because I keep my fingers away from the blade.
This technique hasn't shorted me or left me with a big pile of pieces that are barely too small to use.
Ken Sherwin
PRO Member
I considered using my bandsaw to cut the segment ends but decided the cut was too rough for a good glue joint so I never actually tried it. If I had 1 bandsaw and 1 table saw, I would use a coarser blade in the bandsaw and rip sticks from the stock with it because the surface finish on the ID or OD of the ring don't matter at all. I would (and do) put an 80 tooth crosscut blade in the table saw for the easiest stop setup and smoothest end cuts for the best segment ends.
There are really only three critical items in segmented turning. Those segment ends must be at the correct included angle, the resulting segment edge length must be dead repeatable, and the faces of the glued up rings must be dead flat for the best (meaning invisible but strong) glue joints. How you achieve those 3 things require the most thought.
There are really only three critical items in segmented turning. Those segment ends must be at the correct included angle, the resulting segment edge length must be dead repeatable, and the faces of the glued up rings must be dead flat for the best (meaning invisible but strong) glue joints. How you achieve those 3 things require the most thought.
Will Try using a 14-tooth 3/4 " blade on the band saw and see how good the segments come out. All I have ever used in the past is 3-4 teeth blades, I see the 14 is recommended for segments, from John at Accu slice,
I have retired now and have more time to do research, mostly done some wood furniture and cabinets in the past.
Then a while back pick up a wood lathe, now that's all I want to do.
I have retired now and have more time to do research, mostly done some wood furniture and cabinets in the past.
Then a while back pick up a wood lathe, now that's all I want to do.
Ken Sherwin
PRO Member
That's why they call it "The Vortex". It's just like a marriage. It's not the initial cost that's expensive. It's the upkeep!