Snturner10
PRO Member
What is an "open-segment"? Does that just mean that the segments don't touch in the center? So a closed segment would be segments that touch in the center and don't have a hole in the middle of the ring?
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Ken Sherwin
PRO Member
Your question seems to be about the inside diameter of a ring or row. (Every ring is a row but not every row is a ring, to be cleared up momentarily.) The outside diameter of a row is controlled only by the segment edge length (SEL) and the inside diameter relative to the outside diameter is controlled by the board width.
Now let's clear up open vs closed rows.
'Closed segment' means that every segment touches the segment next to it at the mitered ends and therefore makes a full solid ring or row. For example, you cut the segments for a 12-segment ring with an included angle of 30 degrees (the angle at each end don't really matter as long as the total is 30.000 degrees) and you glue all 12 segments into a solid ring before you put it on the growing vessel. This is shown in the big body of the red vase in my pic to the left.
'Open segment' means that the segments are cut short, leaving holes in the wall of the vessel For example, You typically cut the segments for a 12-segment open row (you can't really call it a ring) at an included angle of 22 degrees and glue each segment individually to the row already on the vessel you're building. When you stack these 12 segments on, you will leave an 8-degree gap between segments, leaving an 8-degree window or hole. This is shown in the neck of the piece to the left except I chose to make the open rows 6 segments per row by cutting the segments at 44 degrees and leaving 16-degree holes. When I tried 12 segments 22 degrees wide, the ring height was too large for the width and it exploded when I started turning it.
The total of the segment included angle (SIA) and the gap will always be 360 degrees divided by the number of segments but the proportion of gap to SIA is up to you. The larger you make the gap, the less glue area you have and the more fragile the vessel becomes, especially when you just start the rough turning.
You can buy assembly plates at Segeasy.com for a select number of segments per row and specific gap widths. Just looking at the choice of plates will give you a good idea of the relationship between number of segments per row and gap width that other people have found useful. Should you choose to try open segmenting, I highly recommend an assembly plate.
This has probably been more answer than you were expecting but I thought a more in-depth answer would make the process clearer, Does this help?
Now let's clear up open vs closed rows.
'Closed segment' means that every segment touches the segment next to it at the mitered ends and therefore makes a full solid ring or row. For example, you cut the segments for a 12-segment ring with an included angle of 30 degrees (the angle at each end don't really matter as long as the total is 30.000 degrees) and you glue all 12 segments into a solid ring before you put it on the growing vessel. This is shown in the big body of the red vase in my pic to the left.
'Open segment' means that the segments are cut short, leaving holes in the wall of the vessel For example, You typically cut the segments for a 12-segment open row (you can't really call it a ring) at an included angle of 22 degrees and glue each segment individually to the row already on the vessel you're building. When you stack these 12 segments on, you will leave an 8-degree gap between segments, leaving an 8-degree window or hole. This is shown in the neck of the piece to the left except I chose to make the open rows 6 segments per row by cutting the segments at 44 degrees and leaving 16-degree holes. When I tried 12 segments 22 degrees wide, the ring height was too large for the width and it exploded when I started turning it.
The total of the segment included angle (SIA) and the gap will always be 360 degrees divided by the number of segments but the proportion of gap to SIA is up to you. The larger you make the gap, the less glue area you have and the more fragile the vessel becomes, especially when you just start the rough turning.
You can buy assembly plates at Segeasy.com for a select number of segments per row and specific gap widths. Just looking at the choice of plates will give you a good idea of the relationship between number of segments per row and gap width that other people have found useful. Should you choose to try open segmenting, I highly recommend an assembly plate.
This has probably been more answer than you were expecting but I thought a more in-depth answer would make the process clearer, Does this help?
Snturner10
PRO Member
Thank you. That explains it perfectly.