I have been experimenting for a Southwest feature ring using Lamination Pro. After I export my segment area and load it into my bowl just fine. Everything looks great on the outside. But when I enter the bowl, I can see that my design has been lopped off on the left and right. Obviously, it depends on the number of segments as to how much. How can I change the settings to get more wood on either side of the design to allow for the kerf and space between the designs? And which ones, as there a few that impact the design...duh. Or, does everyone simply cut them square and use a wedge of the appropriate segment angle to form the ring?
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Having trouble with Southwest segment length
- Thread starter JYALBERT
- Start date
I take it you are designing the bowl in Segment Pro (SP) since you said you have issues when looking at the inside of the bowl.
It would be helpful if you were to post your SP plan (json) file so we can see exactly what you are seeing.
You need to design the pattern so there is enough space of the main background species to accommodate the miter angle. Attached is a SW bowl design where the pattern is not cut off. Note that the outside has a wider border than the inside. This is do to the miter angle and SEL
It would be helpful if you were to post your SP plan (json) file so we can see exactly what you are seeing.
You need to design the pattern so there is enough space of the main background species to accommodate the miter angle. Attached is a SW bowl design where the pattern is not cut off. Note that the outside has a wider border than the inside. This is do to the miter angle and SEL
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The *.json file is the file type used / created by SP. When you do a file share it saves the *.json file in your My Segment Pro folder under documents.
The f50- json file I attached you need to import it into SP.
- Download the json file (most likely it will save to your download folder.
- Start SP
- Go to Share / Import
- from the pop up window select where the json file was downloaded to. (download or my segment pro folder)
- click on the file and then open
You should get a message the Plan was successfully imported.
- Go to the Plans tab in SP, select and open the plan.
If the plan is not in the SP list. close and restart SP. The plan should show up.
In Lamination Pro the repeating unit measurement should be as close as possible to the required SEL (segment edge length) needed for that ring.
You can adjust the first cut width to make changes to get closer to the SEL
Without seeing the design and the bowl it is difficult to come up with exactly what you need to do to get the pattern to fit your ring.
Your saved Lamination pro file should be under My Lamination Pro folder in Documents. The file has an *.lam extension.
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As you increase the width of the center strip (blue strip), it will decrease the width of the design.
I found the magic of the center strip by accident when I was writing the code. I was creating a design and forgot to add the center strip and was surprised (and delighted) with the result.
I found the magic of the center strip by accident when I was writing the code. I was creating a design and forgot to add the center strip and was surprised (and delighted) with the result.
Thanks, as you can readily see, I have not really learned how to use SP yet. I always wondered where the bowls went. There's a whole bunch of stuff in that Plans tab. I think mine too, as I have tried to do "Save Plan" before but there is no "File" menu so I didn't know where they were gone to. Also, why does it save some plans with an image of the bowl, whereas other save the Summary table? As for the plan you shared, I see that it has spacers between the southwest designs. Are those spacers wedges or, is the design block the wedge and the spacers are straight blocks? Thanks for the info.
I suspect you haven’t watched the tutorials because you are asking questions that are covered in them. To get to them, the first category is Video Tutorials. Click the Software link under that and then click Segment PRO to find the 12 tutorials.
When you save a plan, the software does a screen capture of the current screen and the crop of that image is what is saved as the thumbnail.
When you save a plan, the software does a screen capture of the current screen and the crop of that image is what is saved as the thumbnail.
Thank heavens for video tutorials. I rely on them daily. I taught myself how to be a programmer using C# so you can see why I think they are so important. My tutorials are just a starting place, though, so please continue to post your questions here.
I do have another question...Do you have a recommendation for how to glue a painted segment bowl that has no gaps? I am not ready to tackle a open segment bowl yet. I do know about the plates and the Stomper but that will have to come later. For now, I am impressed with myself in being able to create a painted design and printing our the rings plan. What I struggle with is what sort of jig or tools are used to glue the rings, once built to the ring plan, together and ensure they align? Are there videos or documents on the site that would help?
For your closed segment vessel I would start with something simple with 12 segments per ring.
Do a search and look at some videos on how to build a segmented vessel. I recommend the segeasy cutting sled. It is very easy to build,
There are many ways to build the rings and glue and clamp them up.
- rubber bands, hose clamps, homemade clamps, etc.
again. search on the net and watch some videos.
I have made this clamp and have used it.
Whatever you do doing a dry fit to make sure the ring has no gaps is essential.
Sometimes you can build half rings and if there is gaps sand the two half rings on a disk sander to remove the gap for a good fit.
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Thanks, I had seen that clamp before I think a guy named Earl came up with it? I've wanted to make one for a while but am using band clamps now pretty successfully. My question was more about alignment. Once you have the ring completed which is part of a design spanning many rings, how do you glue the rings to each other and maintain the integrity of the design. Has someone figured a way to ensure alignment and made it easy. I have been eyeballing the seams between segments, layer to layer, but that seems overly prone to misalignment. Any ideas?
segments bowls rings are generally stacked in a brick pattern. That is the segment joint of the top ring lines up in the middle of a segment on the bottom ring. One can mark on a segment the half way point at four locations (0. 90, 180, 270 degree location. That will help with getting the pattern alignment.
The next challenge is to center the ring.
- One could use the stomper sold by Lloyd,
-Build a simple centering guidel
How To Center Segmented Bowl Rings | Woodturning Online
Many times I’ve glued up rings only to discover that when mounted on the lathe, they are off-center. In some cases, there is enough material to turn away and
woodturningonline.com
Appreciate the information and link.segments bowls rings are generally stacked in a brick pattern. That is the segment joint of the top ring lines up in the middle of a segment on the bottom ring. One can mark on a segment the half way point at four locations (0. 90, 180, 270 degree location. That will help with getting the pattern alignment.
The next challenge is to center the ring.
- One could use the stomper sold by Lloyd,
-Build a simple centering guidel
- Use a digital caliper to measure the distance on each side of the ring to the other ring.How To Center Segmented Bowl Rings | Woodturning Online
Many times I’ve glued up rings only to discover that when mounted on the lathe, they are off-center. In some cases, there is enough material to turn away and
GrahamJ46
PRO Member
The reason that the Segeasy sled gets recommended so often is that it is self correcting. Any slight error in the segment cutting angle is corrected since alternating pieces are cut from different fences. It is important to remember to mark one of the surfaces before you start cutting so that any slight variation from 90 deg of the saw blade wrt the table top is accounted for. With careful stock prep (always very important), careful cutting (use a sharp multi-tooth blade for clean cuts), and careful assembly, plus the Segeasy sled, I virtually never have any rings with gaps between segments. If I do, it is because I have been careless somewhere! I have tried many different ways to glue-up rings, and now I only use hose clamps. I also made a jig to flatten rings so that at least one surface is flat when the glue has set. How you flatten the other face parallel to the flat one is another story in itself, and you will get may different answers. If both surfaces are flat and parallel to each other you will get a good result. If not the bowl may come apart on the lathe. Been there, done that when I was learning!! Use whatever works for you!
Actually, I do use a Segeasy style sled and have the wedgies for setups to make the rings. I think the sled is brilliant in it's compensating for table saw setup issues. Armed with the wedgies and the sled, my rings come out just perfect. The issue I am having is when stacking patterned rings. Getting and keeping the alignment of the brick pattern (wedge seams) and various paint patterns incorporated in the form is my issue.
It can be a challenge. One method I do is using digital calipers I will mark the center of a segment on the lower ring at four locations (0,90,180,270). Then I will line up the edge of a segment of the top (ring to be glued) on those marks. At times I also have glued some holding blocks to the ring with hot glue to keep the ring from moving around during glueing. I use a 10lb free weight placed on the faceplate for clamping pressure.
GrahamJ46
PRO Member
If I have a problem it is because I have not kept the rings centered correctly. Since using the Stomper and Longworth centering device, I have had no problems. If you are off near the start it will likely get worse as you proceed. If your ring prep is good and everything is centered things should line up pretty well. I judge that things are aligned by eye, and that usually works Ok for me. Having said that, the idea to use 0, 90, 180, 270 marks is a good one. A little extra care usually bring its rewards.
Gary Beasley
PRO Member
That and a centering cone or longworth chuck mounted on the tailstock should get easy repeatable results.