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48 segment rings
- Thread starter AlanLevin
- Start date
I have ran into the same problem when doing a closed ring of 36 or higher segment count.
I do not have a jig like Tom Lohman uses. My process is to:
- Do a dry clamp fit of the ring to check for gaps.
- Glue up a few pairs and clamp with a ring clamp.
- Continue to build till you have a completed ring.
I also have tried adding a bit of water to the glue to increase dry time. I live in Arizona and humidity is non existent till the monsoon season kicks in.
I do not have a jig like Tom Lohman uses. My process is to:
- Do a dry clamp fit of the ring to check for gaps.
- Glue up a few pairs and clamp with a ring clamp.
- Continue to build till you have a completed ring.
I also have tried adding a bit of water to the glue to increase dry time. I live in Arizona and humidity is non existent till the monsoon season kicks in.
Charles Broadbent
PRO Member
Similar to the previous reply, when I build rings with greater than 24 segments:
1. I use glues with extended set times, allowing for longer assembly intervals, such as Titebond Extend.
2. After a dry assembly to confirm the positioning of species and the absence of gaps, I mark the tops of the segments with a sharpie to identify my glue-up plan. This keeps me on track with my glue-up plan.
3. I execute the glue-up plan which usually involves iterations of selective pairings followed by clamping the entire ring together to dry before all the segments are glued. This spreads the glued segments out fairly evenly such as glueing every other pair in the first round, or every third segment to its neighbor, then tightening the hose clamp to dry then doing the next or remaining segments for the next or final round.
A note of caution: the dry segments will move differently at hose clamping than when glued. It is important to assure all segments are positioned properly AND that the diameter of the clamped and tightened ring is the same when checked top-to-bottom and left-to-right as well as other checking points so that the partially glued segments when dry will still form part of a perfect circle. Otherwise, the partially clamped segments may contribute to a slightly oval ring which may destroy its usability. With large segment counts, you can never rely solely on the hose clamp tightening to bring the segments into a perfect circle, even if you are fast enough to glue them all at once.
If you discover the diameter varies when measured at different points, how to fix? Loosen the clamp slightly and manually push together the sides where the largest diameter is measured then retighten and recheck. Repeat as necessary until the ring is perfectly circular. If the glue has set by the time you do this, you are trying to glue too many segments at once. Trust me, taking your time to glue rings in perfect circles will save you from having to recut and remake rings that are not usable!
1. I use glues with extended set times, allowing for longer assembly intervals, such as Titebond Extend.
2. After a dry assembly to confirm the positioning of species and the absence of gaps, I mark the tops of the segments with a sharpie to identify my glue-up plan. This keeps me on track with my glue-up plan.
3. I execute the glue-up plan which usually involves iterations of selective pairings followed by clamping the entire ring together to dry before all the segments are glued. This spreads the glued segments out fairly evenly such as glueing every other pair in the first round, or every third segment to its neighbor, then tightening the hose clamp to dry then doing the next or remaining segments for the next or final round.
A note of caution: the dry segments will move differently at hose clamping than when glued. It is important to assure all segments are positioned properly AND that the diameter of the clamped and tightened ring is the same when checked top-to-bottom and left-to-right as well as other checking points so that the partially glued segments when dry will still form part of a perfect circle. Otherwise, the partially clamped segments may contribute to a slightly oval ring which may destroy its usability. With large segment counts, you can never rely solely on the hose clamp tightening to bring the segments into a perfect circle, even if you are fast enough to glue them all at once.
If you discover the diameter varies when measured at different points, how to fix? Loosen the clamp slightly and manually push together the sides where the largest diameter is measured then retighten and recheck. Repeat as necessary until the ring is perfectly circular. If the glue has set by the time you do this, you are trying to glue too many segments at once. Trust me, taking your time to glue rings in perfect circles will save you from having to recut and remake rings that are not usable!
1 - dry fit all segments
2 - loosen hose clamp (do not remove)
3 - use extended glue with long open time (TB type III is 10-12 minutes)
4 - apply glue to every other segment
5 - use dip method for fast glue application
6 - watch area where clamp buckle is located
7 - make sure all outer edges of segments are in alignment
8 - use a disk to hold all segments down while tightening clamp
9 - using a turntable will speed up the gluing process
2 - loosen hose clamp (do not remove)
3 - use extended glue with long open time (TB type III is 10-12 minutes)
4 - apply glue to every other segment
5 - use dip method for fast glue application
6 - watch area where clamp buckle is located
7 - make sure all outer edges of segments are in alignment
8 - use a disk to hold all segments down while tightening clamp
9 - using a turntable will speed up the gluing process
GrahamJ46
PRO Member
I do most of what has been mentioned, especially the slow setting glue. Originally I started by gluing together 3 segment pieces using friction joints. However, I found that by the time I got to the end things were setting up. So, I went to groups of 4. Then I glue together all of the groups of 4. If you have done a good job of stock prep and segment cutting the ring should go together OK. I used to do dry fit but no longer bother and so far it has worked out, maybe I am just lucky 
. I use hose clamps to hold the segments in place while gluing. I made a simple jig (½" threaded rod buried in 2" of MDF, ½" nut, and disc with a hole in the center) to compress the ring to try and get as flat as possible. This can eliminate a lot of other flattening work. I put the ring on the jig and slightly loosen the hose clamp so that it will flatten, apply pressure (lots of pressure), release the pressure, re-tighten the hose clamp, and then re-apply pressure. This can get one side pretty flat. You need to be very well organized and fast or you will have a problem. I rehearsed several times on rings that did not matter to get the minimum time to complete a ring.
. I use hose clamps to hold the segments in place while gluing. I made a simple jig (½" threaded rod buried in 2" of MDF, ½" nut, and disc with a hole in the center) to compress the ring to try and get as flat as possible. This can eliminate a lot of other flattening work. I put the ring on the jig and slightly loosen the hose clamp so that it will flatten, apply pressure (lots of pressure), release the pressure, re-tighten the hose clamp, and then re-apply pressure. This can get one side pretty flat. You need to be very well organized and fast or you will have a problem. I rehearsed several times on rings that did not matter to get the minimum time to complete a ring.