• Are you looking for a coupon code to buy my software? You can get one from lots of 3rd party sites but they won't work. My software never goes on sale and has never been discounted. The only coupon codes that are given is when I give a club presentation and I offer a discount to the attendees. Other than that, everyone pays the same price.

11 - Summary and Ring Views of Segment PRO

The lgth (Length) column shows the minimum length of a board that is required to make the number of segments specified in the Species column.

Remember that the length DOES NOT have and additional material for safety/clamping, etc. You must add that amount yourself since it is likely different for every user.
 
The lgth (Length) column shows the minimum length of a board that is required to make the number of segments specified in the Species column.

Remember that the length DOES NOT have and additional material for safety/clamping, etc. You must add that amount yourself since it is likely different for every user.
Thanks for the quick response.

After looking more and your response, I think I discovered my problem. I am guessing that the program does not convert those numbers into metric, hence the 1.4" for the padauk is pretty close to 40.8mm S.E.L number

Is this correct?
Thanks again for the help
Merry Christmas
 
Thanks for the quick response.

After looking more and your response, I think I discovered my problem. I am guessing that the program does not convert those numbers into metric, hence the 1.4" for the padauk is pretty close to 40.8mm S.E.L number

Is this correct?
Thanks again for the help
Merry Christmas

There is a known bug in SP where not all numbers are converted to metric when that option is selected. Lloyd is working on an update to SP fix that issue along with some other enhancements. The metric bug is fixed it will be in the update when released.


 
This tutorial will help you understand how to get the most out of the Summary View and how to use the Ring View from Segment PRO:

Hello, I'm a brand new user of the tools, purchased today and working on laying out my first bowl. Following these instructions, the ring view PDF results do NOT include cutting instructions for each row at the bottom of each page as described in the tutorial. Is this a bug or am I doing something wrong?

Version 1.0
Build 1.1.029
 
Hello, I'm a brand new user of the tools, purchased today and working on laying out my first bowl. Following these instructions, the ring view PDF results do NOT include cutting instructions for each row at the bottom of each page as described in the tutorial. Is this a bug or am I doing something wrong?

Version 1.0
Build 1.1.029
There is no bug in the ring view in SP. SP ring view produces a pdf file. It can be used as a guide for how to layout the pattern you painted during the building of the rings.

The instructions for cutting is in the summary table. It has all the info you need.
- number of segments per ring
- miter angle
- segment edge length
- width of the board
- number of segments of each of the different species.
- board length is total board length. For example if it says you need a board 24" long to make a 24 segment ring and that ring is made up of 2 species. It will not tell you that you need a board of 12 inches for species 1 and 12 inches for species 2.
Also the board length needed does not take into account a safety fudge factor. I generally add 2 to 3 inches.

WoodTurner Pro ring view provides more detail and an actual size ring when printed out.

imo, any of the software makes the assumption that the user knows about cutting sleds, setting miter angles, setting proper edge length stop block, etc. The summary table is your guide.

Since you are just getting started I would suggest you start with a very simple bowl. Novice setting. Keep the number of rings to a minimum. Learn how to set things up, prepare your stock, cut the segments, glue them together, flatten the rings, stack the rings, and turn the vessel.

There are many videos on the net that show how to build a segment bowl. If you have a woodturning club near you that you can join would also be a great tool to draw on.

Have fun, Ask your questions. Someone will try and give you tips as you proceed to learn.
 
Last edited:
The control the software author provides to add text to the rings page was buggy and could cause the process to freeze and since there is no need to have this data on the rings page, I deleted it. The Summary is the document that has all of the calculations for every ring of your Plan.

I wrote the software author about the faulty control and he said he was aware off the issue and would fix it. As soon as he does, I’ll add back the text data.

If ever the current view of a page doesn’t match what you see in a tutorial, it means that there was a necessary reason to make a change and when it is simply removing unnecessary text it’s hardly worth making a new tutorial. Running a business this large all by yourself comes with time limitations I’m afraid. ;-(

What you see on your screen supersedes any tutorial image.
 
I appreciate the suggestion for starting simple, and the explanation that the feature described in the video has been removed from the software.
 
There is no bug in the ring view in SP. SP ring view produces a pdf file. It can be used as a guide for how to layout the pattern you painted during the building of the rings.

The instructions for cutting is in the summary table. It has all the info you need.
- number of segments per ring
- miter angle
- segment edge length
- width of the board
- number of segments of each of the different species.
- board length is total board length. For example if it says you need a board 24" long to make a 24 segment ring and that ring is made up of 2 species. It will not tell you that you need a board of 12 inches for species 1 and 12 inches for species 2.
Also the board length needed does not take into account a safety fudge factor. I generally add 2 to 3 inches.

WoodTurner Pro ring view provides more detail and an actual size ring when printed out.

imo, any of the software makes the assumption that the user knows about cutting sleds, setting miter angles, setting proper edge length stop block, etc. The summary table is your guide.

Since you are just getting started I would suggest you start with a very simple bowl. Novice setting. Keep the number of rings to a minimum. Learn how to set things up, prepare your stock, cut the segments, glue them together, flatten the rings, stack the rings, and turn the vessel.

There are many videos on the net that show how to build a segment bowl. If you have a woodturning club near you that you can join would also be a great tool to draw on.

Have fun, Ask your questions. Someone will try and give you tips as you proceed to learn.
The RV Park we're spending the winter in has a woodshop/club and I'm signed up for the segmented bowl class.
 
The RV Park we're spending the winter in has a woodshop/club and I'm signed up for the segmented bowl class.
Years ago I had a fellow woodclub member teach me how to build and turn a segmented vessel. I am always grateful for his time and knowledge.

Having a mentor was a valuable asset for me to learn. I still only consider myself an intermediate builder/turner. Each one is a learning experience.
 
Question about the summary view "optimize" functions. In the example below, Optimize SEL changes the lengths by a small amount, some get a bit longer and some a bit shorter. Do I correctly understand that this will make the corresponding rings a little larger/smaller in diameter and require more/less wood to be trimmed during turning?

1705022498438.png
 
There is no bug in the ring view in SP. SP ring view produces a pdf file. It can be used as a guide for how to layout the pattern you painted during the building of the rings.

The instructions for cutting is in the summary table. It has all the info you need.
- number of segments per ring
- miter angle
- segment edge length
- width of the board
- number of segments of each of the different species.
- board length is total board length. For example if it says you need a board 24" long to make a 24 segment ring and that ring is made up of 2 species. It will not tell you that you need a board of 12 inches for species 1 and 12 inches for species 2.
Also the board length needed does not take into account a safety fudge factor. I generally add 2 to 3 inches.

WoodTurner Pro ring view provides more detail and an actual size ring when printed out.

imo, any of the software makes the assumption that the user knows about cutting sleds, setting miter angles, setting proper edge length stop block, etc. The summary table is your guide.

Since you are just getting started I would suggest you start with a very simple bowl. Novice setting. Keep the number of rings to a minimum. Learn how to set things up, prepare your stock, cut the segments, glue them together, flatten the rings, stack the rings, and turn the vessel.

There are many videos on the net that show how to build a segment bowl. If you have a woodturning club near you that you can join would also be a great tool to draw on.

Have fun, Ask your questions. Someone will try and give you tips as you proceed to learn.
Was thinking of something along these lines for my first bowl... I'm pretty familiar with table saw usage. The shop here has sleds and angle wedges, stop blocks, etc. About a half dozen members are willing to mentor those of us tackling our first bowls...

1705023729181.png
 
Was thinking of something along these lines for my first bowl... I'm pretty familiar with table saw usage. The shop here has sleds and angle wedges, stop blocks, etc. About a half dozen members are willing to mentor those of us tackling our first bowls...

View attachment 5116
Nice design.
Have fun with your first project.
 
A little bit about optimizing the board width and SEL fields...

Generally speaking, you can always optimize the board width with the objective of having as few board widths as possible for speed and fewer saw setups. The optimizing rounds up or down to the next decimal place and so sometimes it is wider and sometimes narrower. This affects the Inside Diameter ONLY. If the board width reduces, the inside diameter grows but you should always be building vessels that have enough wall width that you turn wood away and the optimizing makes very little difference other than the time you will save by optimizing.

You can also use the optimizing feature for SEL but not in all cases. If you are making rings with 18 segments or less, you can always use it. But as you get to high-count segmenting (24 segments or more), the SEL is a small number. If you have small SELs and you optimize them, you might have five rings or more that get optimized to the exact same number. This speeds the cutting of segments but those identical rings will make a column of rings. You need to turn the profile from this column and there’s no reason not to do this as long as you can visualize the wall profile before turning it.

I optimize SELs for any ring 18 segments or less and always optimize the board width. However, I do a lot mor optimizing that the software does automatically. I am always looking for ways to reduce the time it takes to cut segments and having fewer board widths is the best way to do this. If I have a number of rings that could be optimized to a single dimensions, regardless of where those rings are positioned, I optimize them to the highest of the five width calculations. This means that the inside diameters of the altered rows will be less than calculated meaning you will need to remove slightly more wood from those rows than the non-altered rows. Removing wood is fast, though, and optimizing will definitely save time.

I do this by one of two ways. First, I print out the Summary and cross out the board width and write in the desired width. Fast and Easy. Second, I export the summary to a spreadsheet and use copy/paste to do the same thing. Not-so-fast but really neat.

My goal is always to have four or less board widths. Certain profiles allow this and others don’t.
 
A little bit about optimizing the board width and SEL fields...

Generally speaking, you can always optimize the board width with the objective of having as few board widths as possible for speed and fewer saw setups. The optimizing rounds up or down to the next decimal place and so sometimes it is wider and sometimes narrower. This affects the Inside Diameter ONLY. If the board width reduces, the inside diameter grows but you should always be building vessels that have enough wall width that you turn wood away and the optimizing makes very little difference other than the time you will save by optimizing.

You can also use the optimizing feature for SEL but not in all cases. If you are making rings with 18 segments or less, you can always use it. But as you get to high-count segmenting (24 segments or more), the SEL is a small number. If you have small SELs and you optimize them, you might have five rings or more that get optimized to the exact same number. This speeds the cutting of segments but those identical rings will make a column of rings. You need to turn the profile from this column and there’s no reason not to do this as long as you can visualize the wall profile before turning it.

I optimize SELs for any ring 18 segments or less and always optimize the board width. However, I do a lot mor optimizing that the software does automatically. I am always looking for ways to reduce the time it takes to cut segments and having fewer board widths is the best way to do this. If I have a number of rings that could be optimized to a single dimensions, regardless of where those rings are positioned, I optimize them to the highest of the five width calculations. This means that the inside diameters of the altered rows will be less than calculated meaning you will need to remove slightly more wood from those rows than the non-altered rows. Removing wood is fast, though, and optimizing will definitely save time.

I do this by one of two ways. First, I print out the Summary and cross out the board width and write in the desired width. Fast and Easy. Second, I export the summary to a spreadsheet and use copy/paste to do the same thing. Not-so-fast but really neat.

My goal is always to have four or less board widths. Certain profiles allow this and others don’t.
Great input, thank you!
 
Was thinking of something along these lines for my first bowl... I'm pretty familiar with table saw usage. The shop here has sleds and angle wedges, stop blocks, etc. About a half dozen members are willing to mentor those of us tackling our first bowls...

View attachment 5116
This is a GREAT first project. By all means, take advantage of the mentors. There are tips and tricks that all segmenters have to learn and if you can learn them from a mentor on first turnings, you’ll advance far faster than if you have to learn these things on your own. Plus, it makes them feel good that they get to pass on knowledge to others so everybody wins.

Have fun, and please post a picture to the gallery when you’re done.

Also, keep this bowl forever. It will remind you of how far your journey has come.
 
Here is how I use the Export feature of the Summary to format the data in a way that I can take a single sheet of paper that has large print so that I can put it on my bulletin board and see it from a short distance. This link is to a 5-part tutorial and part 1 is where I design the project in Segment PRO and then export it:
 
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