Closed Segment Project 1441

I am glad that I took the extra time and cut back the finish in order to fill the grain of the wenge and Paudauk. Each time I applied the wipe on poly I usually did two to three coats and then the next day I would power sand 220, 320 & 400. I did this about five times before I was happy and sure there were no more grain holes showing. Today was just a 600 sand and then another application of poly. It may be the last baring any unseen issues.
 
stuart johnson said:
Glenn, another winner. Have you thought about making up a disc design for the bottom on you next one?
Click to expand...
Hi Stuart. Thanks for the comment. As far a a bottom disc design goes I would have to give it some thought. Looking at others that do (i.e.. Tom Lohman) his bottoms seem to work very well with the pieces he designs. Others that do simple bottoms like an additional row of long segments that reach to nearly the centre I do not care for as it seems to draw your eyes right to the bottom simply because it doesn't look right or it appears to be stretched. It may work in some situations but not with the flowers. In my opinion of course. Have you come up with any designs for the disc? Or even with my bowl in this thread, what would you have done differently? I am always looking for critique or suggestions so please don't hold back.
 
Glenn, When it works out I like to make an extra feature ring segment if they are large enough or make one to size like this one from my Quilt bowl. bottom.jpg

You can also make something special in Lam Pro and save it in your specie folder to use as a disc. If you are a member of Segmented Woodturnes Title: {title] Robin Costelle has a very good write up on this method. If you aren't a member I suggest you join. It is well worth the $25 annual dues.
 
stuart johnson said:
Glenn, When it works out I like to make an extra feature ring segment if they are large enough or make one to size like this one from my Quilt bowl. View attachment 2083

You can also make something special in Lam Pro and save it in your specie folder to use as a disc. If you are a member of Segmented Woodturnes Title: {title] Robin Costelle has a very good write up on this method. If you aren't a member I suggest you join. It is well worth the $25 annual dues.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that Stuart.
 
I am finally satisfied with the final coat of Wipe on Poly. The coat I put on tuesday seemed to attract some dust and needed to be re-sanded. I think I will let this dry for a few more days and then maybe give it rub on the Beal buff with only the carnauba. This is what I did with my Eagle bowl and I like that finish.
 
Terrific job, Glenn!
Thanks again for documenting this project. It has been really helpful for all of us.
Lloyd
 
Lloyd Johnson said:
Terrific job, Glenn!
Thanks again for documenting this project. It has been really helpful for all of us.
Lloyd
Click to expand...

Thank you Lloyd. I don't think my way is better than others but it gets the job done for me. I always learn something by posting pictures and info by the comments that I get from other users.

I would like to build an assembly jig like that of Tom Lohman or Dennis Edwards to give that a try. I think Tom's is the Cadillac. I need to build it as affordable as possible. I can see myself doing a few high density bowls so its more a justification issue. The Index wheel will be the big issue as to push on above 48 segments to 144 requires a greater accuracy as you are aware. I would certainly like to see what others have built and how they have overcome any issues associated with this type of build. I also prefer to do closed segment.

I do have the William Smith jig but I think it should be a stand alone off lathe jig to allow gravity to be your friend instead of enemy. Bob has sent me some info looking at a few jigs like Tom's, Dennis Edwards, and Ray Feltz. I will certainly need some details as to how to mount the chuck/faceplate on the jig and how to make it adjustable to help index it back after flattening the rings.
 
So here it is, the final chapter. I just used my Beal buff to give it a bit of a refined finish. I am very pleased with the result.

IMG_2442.JPG IMG_2441.JPG IMG_2440.JPG IMG_2439.JPG
 
Final sizes were, 4.25 inches tall, 9 inches wide at the brim and a wall thickness of 5/16. The base was 4 inches. I also wanted a good stable bowl.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top