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Closed Segment Project 1441

Not a criticism, just a question. Does anyone else think the use of the centering circles is necessary? I've never used them. I've always been of the idea that if the segments are cut correctly they automatically form a circle. The hose clamp and clamping to flatten the ring is a good idea that I've used many times. This is the interesting thing about segmenting, everyone has a slightly different way of doing the same thing and whatever works is the best way for you.
 
Not a criticism, just a question. Does anyone else think the use of the centering circles is necessary? I've never used them. I've always been of the idea that if the segments are cut correctly they automatically form a circle. The hose clamp and clamping to flatten the ring is a good idea that I've used many times. This is the interesting thing about segmenting, everyone has a slightly different way of doing the same thing and whatever works is the best way for you.

Art, I have had good luck with just clamping segments without a circle centre as long as it was 12-18 pieces. Getting larger (meaning 48-60 segments) I find that the hose clamp will distort the circle making alignment impossible on a 60 segment ring. I have tried the rubber band method but with small rings (<1/4) it does not work for me. I would certainly love to hear from others as well that are doing 48 or 60 segment rings to see how they are keeping everything round.

I think it is great that you ask as I am always willing to listen to the advice of others. Most times when I come up against a problem it is up to me to come up with a solution as well. Having advice from others can help everyone.
 
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Glenn, have you tried waxing the circles to prevent the glue from sticking?
Stuart what would you use a paste wax?? Might be worth a try. The scotch tape is quick but does have a few tight spots. For the bigger majority of rings it does come out clean. I mentioned it to bring attention to anyone that tries my method to be aware.
 
Any paste wax should do the trick. I use Johnson's Paste on my machines and on glue forms. I don't see any reason to use an expensive wax. I normally us 16 segments so don't think the circles would be of a benefit but I can see how they keep the thinner ones with a greater number of segments aligned. I also use zip ties instead of clamps. There isn't as much distortion like the screw section on clamps. Your builds and clamping have given me several ideas, keep them coming.
 
On another thread I did a quick explanation of what I do to align the segments. Basically, segment (a) front edge is placed against a flat surface (fence), segment (b) is attached using a rub joint with the left front corner being pushed up against the fence. I align the outside rather than the inside of the ring. This compensates for any a slight variation in the different stock width.

I like how you flatten your rings. I have always hand sanded the bottom. Glued the ring on and once set sand the top flat on the lathe.
 
Row #10 is now on. It gave me a bit of a hassle as I managed to break it in two spots. Just had to re-glue and clamp for an hour and now it is on the main body.

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Row #11 & 12 are flattened and waiting for their time. Row #11 at 11:30am and Ring #12 at about 1:30PM (Atlantic). You'd think I had a tight schedule to maintain. I like to wait about 2 hours between layers.

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Ring #13 is in clamps.

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I am out of Tulip wood so I need to take a run to the Hardwood Store but after about 6 inches of snow yesterday, followed by a few hours of rain and now a drop in temperature below freezing our roads are not the best. So I will wait for another day. Tomorrow is calling for rain turning to snow.

So what I will do today is start cutting segments from the top down until I hit where the tulipwood starts. That will be 5 rows to work on.
 
Glenn when you break one of your rings are you sanding back down to bare wood. I remember in Boston at the demonstration with the rep from Franklin he said Titebond glue is designed to adhere to cellulose and will not give you a very good joint gluing to a previous glued joint. He said after the initial catch of the joint the molecules start locking to each other and then if you break that joint you will get a much weaker joint if you try to put it back together, and if you break a cured joint you should sand to bare wood othere wise there is none of the molecular lock up and you have a weak joint. I hope I explained that clear enough, if not let me know
 
Glenn when you break one of your rings are you sanding back down to bare wood. I remember in Boston at the demonstration with the rep from Franklin he said Titebond glue is designed to adhere to cellulose and will not give you a very good joint gluing to a previous glued joint. He said after the initial catch of the joint the molecules start locking to each other and then if you break that joint you will get a much weaker joint if you try to put it back together, and if you break a cured joint you should sand to bare wood othere wise there is none of the molecular lock up and you have a weak joint. I hope I explained that clear enough, if not let me know
Thanks Bob for that. On the ring that I broke in two spots it did facilitate sanding a bit on the joints. On the few others that broke it was only on one joint so it wasn't possible to sand. Sometimes just a drip of CA fixes the issue. Loss of strength probably.
 
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I don't think the strength of the repaired segment is of any great concern. You have very strong long grain on both sides.
 
Picked up 3 BF of Yellowheart ($8.90 BF), .8 BF Tulipwood ($45.00BF) & 1.6 BF of Wenge(19.60BF). All for a mere $108.69

Obviously I will have lots to work with for future bowls or projects.
 
One thing about turning segmented projects is that it is all long grain, you can peel off some really neat ribbons and generally get really nice cuts.

And besides the shavings look cool from all the different color woods.

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