• Are you looking for a coupon code to buy my software? You can get one from lots of 3rd party sites but they won't work. My software never goes on sale and has never been discounted. The only coupon codes that are given is when I give a club presentation and I offer a discount to the attendees. Other than that, everyone pays the same price.
Congrats. A first and a Second place.
If I was a judge the Eagle Bowl would have outscored the Dizzy just on the complexity of construction.

Both are extremely well done.
As I tell folks, myself and my bowls are still a work in progress. Your work definitely is a cut above mine.
 
Nothing wrong with number one and number two. The stacked dizzy bowl probably had more of a visual wow factor as opposed to the skill required with the eagle bowl. At least that is my take on the the two. In any event congratulations.
 
Great job! Thanks to Lloyd for steering me to your post as I am considering this as my introduction to turning using SegPro & LP. I'm a little confused about the horizontal cut showing the four lines, photo 1089. I can't visualize the eagle's tail. I also appreciate the hint about carving the interior with the bandsaw.

I see kerfs on the lineal lamination, but not in the final flock of eagles. I also can't find ths show kerfs button in my edition (.018) of LP
 
Great job! Thanks to Lloyd for steering me to your post as I am considering this as my introduction to turning using SegPro & LP. I'm a little confused about the horizontal cut showing the four lines, photo 1089. I can't visualize the eagle's tail. I also appreciate the hint about carving the interior with the bandsaw.

I see kerfs on the lineal lamination, but not in the final flock of eagles. I also can't find ths show kerfs button in my edition (.018) of LP

I can't seem to determine which picture is 1089 but are you referring to post #16? If so I think I was just projecting both sides of the eagle so that my cut would be exactly in the centre. The eagle comes together when you do the cut and then flip one side. Hope that helps, it's been a bit since I did the project. Take your time with this project as any small errors will show up with misalignments.

I did have a bit of a problem seeing the eagles initially so I actually made a lamination with construction paper and did the cuts with sizzors instead of wasting wood. It was one of those ah ha moments when I could finally visualize the eagle.
 
James,

If you eve see something in a video tutorial that does not exist on the current release of the software, it simply means that the user interface has changed. Be assured, though, that I never remove any functionality unless it is meaningless. The change were made to simplify the user interface. For example, at one time, it was necessary to click the 'kerfs' button to have the software display where the kerfs should be for making the cuts for the next generation. Now, I always show four representative saw kerfs so there is no reason to have that button anymore.

The last significant release I made was totally for simplification purposes - to benefit the user but the greater reason was to simplify the logic behind the code. Redundant buttons move the decimal over as to the complexity of the code and so I looked for opportunities to remove redundant buttons. For example, there used to be two ways to select Flip, Flop, Incline and Decline. By removing the redundancy, I was able to remove over 500 lines of code. When you are both the designer, coder and software debugger, it is always a good thing if you can simplify the code.

Lloyd
 
I've had additional requests for help getting started with this project and so here is a Segment PRO plan that shows the bowl as designed. To view it, save it to your desktop and then start Segment PRO and click Share > Import and browse to the file you saved. This will add it to your Plans and feel free to modify it as you like.

I have also made a Lamination PRO file that will make an eagle to fit the Segment Edge Length of 2" tall by 4.25" wide feature ring size.

PLEASE NOTE: Lamination PRO makes the board with the eagles rotated 90 degrees from how you intend to use them in a segmented bowl. Also, the repeating unit has two eagles in it since each left and right strip contains one eagle. This means that the Segment Edge Lenght from Segment PRO specifying 4.25" needs to be the height of the Export Region in Lamination PRO and the height of 2" from SegPRO needs to be half of the Repeating Unit from LamPRO (which calculates to 4.06").

Please post any folowup questions.
 

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If you choose to make the Eagle Bowl with a different size, start by designing it in Segment PRO or Woodturner PRO to get the SEL and feature ring height that you need for Lamination PRO. Translate the SEL and height as described in the prior post to account for the rotated design.

Next, build the feature ring start to finish.

Finally modify your segmented design to match the feature ring that is already complete and then build the bowl to match.
 
If you choose to make the Eagle Bowl with a different size, start by designing it in Segment PRO or Woodturner PRO to get the SEL and feature ring height that you need for Lamination PRO. Translate the SEL and height as described in the prior post to account for the rotated design.

Next, build the feature ring start to finish.

Finally modify your segmented design to match the feature ring that is already complete and then build the bowl to match.
Well I'm done with G1 but I am still confused about how to cut G2. I believe you are explaining it well it is just my brain doesn't work that way and I am not grasping how to do it
 
Making the first generation (chevrons) is trivial. Moving on to the 2nd and 3rd generations can use some additional explanations.

Review the first image which is a rendering I made in SketchUp to show where the cuts are to be made to make each generation.

To make the 2nd generation, Lamination PRO says to cut through the declining (left) strip at 25 degrees. Lamination PRO displays this as well bit it always starts with a full repeating unit to the left. To save material, it makes sense to flip the board over as shown in the image so that the first strip is the inclining (right) strip and the full repeating unit starts after that strip. This lets you cut through the left strip so that the first cut wastes a minimum amount of wood. The point that you need to hit with the center of your saw blade is determined by the design on the first generation board’s left strip. It needs to be the horizontal and vertical center of that design. Draw two cris-crossing lines to identify that point. (Shown in the second image (red lines). I normally mark this pointon each strip where the cut is to be made.

Remember that when you glue the strips you cut from this board, you glue them together without flipping the right strips. That means that you can draw the center point starting in any strip so select where you want to start using a ruler at 35 degrees to see where to cut to waste the least wood. That strip is now the new left strip and each successive cut will skip a strip.

When you cut the strips for the thirds generation, DON’T glue them into a board. You will take each strip and cut it in half on the miter or table saw, flip it over and glue it to the other half, completing the bird design.

Please let me know if you need additional information.

Lloyd
 

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Making the first generation (chevrons) is trivial. Moving on to the 2nd and 3rd generations can use some additional explanations.

Review the first image which is a rendering I made in SketchUp to show where the cuts are to be made to make each generation.

To make the 2nd generation, Lamination PRO says to cut through the declining (left) strip at 25 degrees. Lamination PRO displays this as well bit it always starts with a full repeating unit to the left. To save material, it makes sense to flip the board over as shown in the image so that the first strip is the inclining (right) strip and the full repeating unit starts after that strip. This lets you cut through the left strip so that the first cut wastes a minimum amount of wood. The point that you need to hit with the center of your saw blade is determined by the design on the first generation board’s left strip. It needs to be the horizontal and vertical center of that design. Draw two cris-crossing lines to identify that point. (Shown in the second image (red lines). I normally mark this pointon each strip where the cut is to be made.

Remember that when you glue the strips you cut from this board, you glue them together without flipping the right strips. That means that you can draw the center point starting in any strip so select where you want to start using a ruler at 35 degrees to see where to cut to waste the least wood. That strip is now the new left strip and each successive cut will skip a strip.

When you cut the strips for the thirds generation, DON’T glue them into a board. You will take each strip and cut it in half on the miter or table saw, flip it over and glue it to the other half, completing the bird design.

Please let me know if you need additional information.

Lloyd
Lloyd, after cutting the gen 3 strips, where do you cut them in half?
 
The white lines show where I drew cris-crossing lines to find the center of the design. The green line shows where the cut is to be madeat 90 degrees from the edge. Flip the bottom half left to right and the bird design is finished. Each strip contains one eagle - almost. The head is not in the right place and this will be fixed later. Before moving on, cut the eagles into a rectangular shape (red lines). At this time, it is only necessary to make the segment rectangular - not to make it the size of the SEL called for by Segment PRO so only remove enough wood to give you a straight edge on both ends.

Cut Segment in half.jpg Finished Eagle.jpg

Now glue the eagles together to make a board of eagles and now the heads are all in the right places. When you glue them together use the saw kerf at the center of the segment for aligning the pieces. Once that board is complete, it is the perfect time to make the width of the segments the same as the desired SEL. Divide the SEL by 2 and measure that point on both sides of the centerline. That gives you the location where the board must be ripped (two passes) to make the segment the correct width. You might need to cut a piece of 1/4 plywood as long as the board and 3” - 4” wide and double-side tape it to the top of the board so that it will give you a straight edge that is parallel to your intended cut and run the plywood along the saw fence.. Then remove the plywood and flip the board to make the last rip cut.

Next you have to cut the eagles apart between the tails and heads. You'll have one narrow strip that contains a head and that strip can be glued at the other end of the board to give the last headless eagle a new head.
 
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The white lines show where I drew cris-crossing lines to find the center of the design. The green line shows where the cut is to be made. Flip the bottom half left to right and the bird design is finished. Each strip contains one eagle - almost. The head is not in the right place and this will be fixed later. Before moving on, cut the eagles into a rectangular shape (red lines).

View attachment 4932

Now glue the eagles together to make a board of eagles and now the heads are all in the right places. Next you have to cut the eagles apart between the tails and heads. You'll have one narrow strip that contains a head and that strip can be glued at the other end of the board to give the last headless eagle a new head.
Lloyd this helps so much. For some reason I was thinking they had to be cut north-south not east-west.
I even printed the design and started cutting it but still couldn't get it right.
Thank you very much!
 
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