We all were "newbie" at one time. People are here to help. Heck, I am still learning new things regarding segmenting. Never too old to learn. lol
Not ready for Prime time
- Thread starter Apollo1617
- Start date
Apollo1617
Member
Would I be able to get a project for a beginner. I know it's cheating but I haven't quite grasped the software to design my own. Maybe the cutting list and whatever else I need. I have all the hardware & wood needed. I just can't make a cutting list.
You said you have the software but just don't have the hang of it yet.
The software contains the cutting summary along with a visual of the bowl. Etc.
I have forgotten what software you have? Do you have WoodTurner Pro and Segment Pro?
it would be easier to send you a file for WTP if that is the software you like and then help you pull up and print out the cutlists.
If you prefer Segment Pro. We can walk you through the steps to pull up a profile and make a nice beginner bowl.
I would keep it simple. 8 or 12 segments per ring. not much more than 4 inches tall and 6 to 10 inch in diameter.
Let us know.
Gary Beasley
PRO Member
To counter the slippage when clamping the rings sprinkle a little salt on the glue. It’ll help lock the position till the glue sets.
Apollo1617
Member
I have all 3 programs. thanks for your help.
Apollo1617
Member
Thanks for this. I do have a question. I see the drawing has Walnut mixed in with the Maple on rows 3, 4 & 5. How would that lay out in the ring? Would the Walnut be every 4th segment in those rows??
In WTP you can pull up the ring view. It will show you the layout. No the walnut would be every third segment.
The design is simple in the glue up. 2 maple 1 walnut, 2 maple 1 walnut 2 maple 1 walnut, 2 maple 1 walnut.
This is used on ring 3, 4 and 5. The pattern is created by the centering the edge of the top ring to center of the bottom ring walnut segment.
Apollo1617
Member
I'm still a bit shaky on the bottom of the bowl. Could a mortise or tenon be created separate on a 1/2" disk & added to the 1/2" disk already on the bottom taking the place of the face plate??
Many turners mount the faceplate to what is called a "waste block". The bowl bottom (disk) is glued to the waste block. You can turn the bottom disk and part of the waste block if needed to get the proper contour for the bowl.
When finished you can part/cut the bowl off from the waste block. Then you can square it off on the lathe and use it again. When the waste block gets too thin one can glue another piece of wood to the waste block, true it up and continue. No need to take the faceplate off and mount to another block of wood.
Ken Sherwin
PRO Member
My thoughts:
1. Gluing your base to a waste block then parting your completed project off of that block saves using some of your good base wood to hold the project. Your sacrificial waste block can then be held on the spindle with any of a variety of methods. Dovetail on a scroll chuck, faceplate and screws, and a hole tapped into the glueblock th thread it onto your spindle are some of the common ones. I've used each method, depending on the project and my whim at the moment.
2. A way to make the glue block easier to remove from the base is to dish out the glue block to leave a ring of glue area with an OD about the same size as your raw base block and an ID about 1" smaller than the desired finished base OD. This will leave a ring about 1/2" wide to hold your piece. This way, you only have to part through that small ring and don't have to part all the way to the spindle axis. A deep part can sometimes cause anxiety.
3. If you choose to make the bowl (and it does look like a very good choice) but you have concerns about just how to mix maple and walnut, you might consider using only one species to eliminate one thing to have to keep track of.
4. You might even consider making it out of poplar or pine and calling it a learning experience. Then if you do something you'd rather not show off (all of us have done that), you'll have to qualms about heating the shop with it. Remember, wood is usually not like money. It really does grow on trees.
1. Gluing your base to a waste block then parting your completed project off of that block saves using some of your good base wood to hold the project. Your sacrificial waste block can then be held on the spindle with any of a variety of methods. Dovetail on a scroll chuck, faceplate and screws, and a hole tapped into the glueblock th thread it onto your spindle are some of the common ones. I've used each method, depending on the project and my whim at the moment.
2. A way to make the glue block easier to remove from the base is to dish out the glue block to leave a ring of glue area with an OD about the same size as your raw base block and an ID about 1" smaller than the desired finished base OD. This will leave a ring about 1/2" wide to hold your piece. This way, you only have to part through that small ring and don't have to part all the way to the spindle axis. A deep part can sometimes cause anxiety.
3. If you choose to make the bowl (and it does look like a very good choice) but you have concerns about just how to mix maple and walnut, you might consider using only one species to eliminate one thing to have to keep track of.
4. You might even consider making it out of poplar or pine and calling it a learning experience. Then if you do something you'd rather not show off (all of us have done that), you'll have to qualms about heating the shop with it. Remember, wood is usually not like money. It really does grow on trees.
Apollo1617
Member
Thanks Ken,
I don't understand why I can't make a mortise on the base plate BEFORE building the bowl. I would make the base plate 1" thick. Then I could just mount it when done. The 1" base plate could be turned into the bowl bottom. Maybe even make the base plate segmented?? I'm just thinking without knowledge of segmenting. Possible??
Ken Sherwin
PRO Member
That's absolutely a practical solution. Do you know about pressure turning? You can saw off the corners of your solid wood base then push it against a chuck with a live center in the tailstock. If you crank the tailstock down, it will provide enough friction for you to turn a dovetail that fits your chuck jaws onto your base. That dovetail does not need to be very long. 1/4" is plenty.
While you're there, turn some of the base down to round too. Just don't get too close to the chuck. Now you can turn your base around, secure it in your chuck, flatten it, and start attaching rings.
When the bowl is done all the way through finishing and buffing, reverse it onto a set of Cole jaws and turn the base flat.
While you're there, turn some of the base down to round too. Just don't get too close to the chuck. Now you can turn your base around, secure it in your chuck, flatten it, and start attaching rings.
When the bowl is done all the way through finishing and buffing, reverse it onto a set of Cole jaws and turn the base flat.