GrahamJ46
PRO Member
Interesting! I have never had a single bad ring using a Wedgie sled. When I first started I made half rings thinking that was necessary. Then I just decided that I will try to make full rings to save time and effort, and have done so ever since. I use JB setup templates and some that I have cut myself. The beauty of the Wedgie sled is that it inherently compensates for slight errors because you alternate between 2 fences set at the required angle (critical). There is no flipping of wood or any other maneuver involved. If the sled and saw are correctly setup and stock is flat and square (fundamental), then it should simply work! Even if the blade is not at exactly 90 deg to the saw bed the alternating cuts compensate for that. The only time I ever had a problem was when I accidentally flipped a single wedge, which I recognized right away. It is essential that all of the wedgies remain the same way up as you cut them. I mark the top of the wood to be cut to ensure that. After that it doesn't matter the order in which they go together other than the need to create the layout of the desired ring.
My reason for using "setup blocks" is that no measuring or test cuts are required. It is consistently accurate and much faster! I will give some thought to post about how the setup blocks are determined. It is simply an alternate way to determine where to place the stop block. Once you know the required distance (can be easily calculated) my software works out which setup blocks to use to create that distance.
My reason for using "setup blocks" is that no measuring or test cuts are required. It is consistently accurate and much faster! I will give some thought to post about how the setup blocks are determined. It is simply an alternate way to determine where to place the stop block. Once you know the required distance (can be easily calculated) my software works out which setup blocks to use to create that distance.