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adjustable stop and sled

Richard Bruce

Richard Bruce

PRO Member
I just finished my sled and sliding adjustable stop, both run in the rails of the table saw. The stop block setup slides in the rail and can be locked in place. The block can be slid in and out up to 6 inches. IMG_2742.jpg
 
I like that stop block design. Might have to copy that!
 
Richard Bruce said:
I just finished my sled and sliding adjustable stop, both run in the rails of the table saw. The stop block setup slides in the rail and can be locked in place. The block can be slid in and out up to 6 inches. View attachment 3513
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I have been wanting to make, but not sure of the radius of the arcs. Also do you have a problem with the drop offs? Was thinking of making the stop side full length to keep cut table flush. Has the MDF held up for you? Was debating on using MDF, Plywood, or Starboard. Any help or suggestions you have would be very appreciated.
 
For the arcs, mount your plunge router on a thin piece of wood. Drill a hole on one end of the wood your router is mounted on. Drill a second hole on the other end of the piece large enough for your router bit. Mount the router with two sided tape. Place a bolt you will use for your fence through the piece of wood your router is mounted on through the hole on sled base (the hole on the sawblade side). Route out the arc.

I didn't keep the link but there are many vids that show how to build a sled.
 
kevt said:
This is exactly what I have been wanting to make, but not sure of the radius of the arcs. Also do you have a problem with the drop offs? Was thinking of making the stop side full length to keep cut table flush. Has the MDF held up for you? Was debating on using MDF, Plywood, or Starboard. Any help or suggestions you have would be very appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner I've been out of commission. I haven't had a problem with the mdf sled yet. I've cut several thousand pieces with no problem. I just recently bought a new table saw and modified the sled to fit the new distance to the blade but it still works great. I don't have any problem with drop off's, so far everything works great. The video Bob put up is the one I used to make the sled. It is straight forward and easy to follow.
 
I really like the idea of the digital read out incorporated into stop block. Thanks for the feedback on certain builds. Going specifically for what you have Bob. Let me know if you'd like to sell yours :D Pete has his for around $200 and I see Toms is $250.
 
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I use a combination of setup blocks down to 1/32" to set the distance to the blade. It is quick and accurate, and the stop block is very easy to make. I output data from Segment PRO to Excel, and use that to calculate the setup blocks that I need for each ring.
 
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