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Collaborative Bowl Project - Closed Segment

Thanks Bob. Considering I said I was going to try some test rings I think I will keep on going with this as it seems to be working out. I can see where having the stomper and plates would make this easier. Hopefully I will get these first two rows mounted tomorrow and maybe another ring cut and glued.
 
Well I could not let Glenn do this all by himself or let him get too far ahead, so I have made my thickness planner temporally operational and have made enough strips for 7 rings.
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Cut up the parts for the first ring

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I tried to glue up first ring, started with rub joint making pairs. Then tried gluing up the 24 double segments and putting a rubber band around them. Parts went flying. Regrouped the pieces cleaned then and keep them into larges groups. Then glued up the groups and put rubber bands around then and then a hose clamp. It seemed as I was gluing up the pairs that parts were actually stating to bow. It was as f the small pieces were absorbing moisture from the glue and were moving. Well there are gaps in my first ring so it looks like I back to the drawing board
 
Bob, first off other than a test I've only done 16 segment rings. If you are cutting your strips to 1/4 you haven't left yourself any room for flattening. The ring you have looks like it might take at minimum 1/16 and possibly more to get it sanded flat for glue up. A flat disc slightly smaller that the ring pressed down would help in preventing the buckling. If you spread a sheet of wax paper down and spread your glue (Titebond Extend or Regular diluted) on the segments and placed them inside a loose hose clamp with another piece of wax paper between the disc and segments. Hold down on the disk and tighten the clamp. Put a weight on and let it dry. I'm not sure but I think the extra thickness needed for flattening and a disc holding them flat might work.
 
Good idea Stuart, thanks for the reply.

That kind of why Glenn and I hoped this project might go.

Thanks again
 
One of my projects from a few years ago involved 36 segments per ring that 1/8 " thick. I also had the problem of the rings warping when I tried using 3/16 " material that was sanded to 1/8 when the ring was completed.

What I ended up doing is was using 3/4" thick strips to cut the segments. Glued up half rings. Then cut the half rings on a bandsaw to 3/16. Glued the two halves together, then sanded to 1/8 to flatten the rings.

I attached the wtp file to show the patterns of the 1/8" strips.
 

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I do exactly the same as mfisher. Work out how thick I need to make the segments to harvest on the bandsaw for the size of the rings I need. I have used in the past segmented rings 1-1/2" thick and cut x number of rings required on the bandsaw and run them through the drum sander to size. Try it, it will save you hours of frustration trying to glue up perfect rings from small segments. If you have Malcolm Tibbetts book on segmented wood turning take a look at ch12, page 123 on production turning where he explains cutting completed rings to save time.
 
I agree with Bob. Rings 4,5,9 10 and 3,6,8,11 would be made up as one ring each and then sliced into 4. If no bandsaw or stock that isn't thick enough make them up in two sets (4,5)(9,10), (3,6)(8,11) and then cut with either tablesaw or bandsaw.
 
Bob I've already gained an appreciation for those segmenters that do these amazing designs with these tiny pieces of wood.

Some of the advice so far has been great and I hope we get a lot more. In your case making thicker rings and re-sawing them makes a lot of sense but in my case each ring has a slightly different pattern to deal with. The one thing I will take from the comments at this point is to maybe make my stock 5/16 thick to allow for flattening. My first two rings I will get away with. The first one started at .25 and is now at .245 after flattening the one side.

I initially started cutting segments on my table saw with an 80 tooth Glue-line rip blade. There were a lot of fuzzies. I then swapped the blade with my radial arm saw that had a Frued cross cut blade. It made a big difference in the quality of the cut. I think I got lucky in setting up my Segeasy sled at 7.5 degrees as well. It seems to be holding from one ring to the next. I won't touch it until this project is complete. If I need a different angle for anything else I will make another sled! LOL. Do you have the wedges or how did you set your fences?

I'm hoping to get my first two layers glued to the base today. I will post a picture when I am done.
 
mfisher, Bob and stuart, great comments and insight. Greatly appreciate the experience from previous projects. And Bob, yes I do have Malcum's book just got it last week, will surely look into that section. Stuart thanks for digging into the plans and giving me some guidance on grouping the rings. Good stuff here guys. Thanks for the help.
 
Bob I've already gained an appreciation for those segmenters that do these amazing designs with these tiny pieces of wood.

Some of the advice so far has been great and I hope we get a lot more. In your case making thicker rings and re-sawing them makes a lot of sense but in my case each ring has a slightly different pattern to deal with. The one thing I will take from the comments at this point is to maybe make my stock 5/16 thick to allow for flattening. My first two rings I will get away with. The first one started at .25 and is now at .245 after flattening the one side.

I initially started cutting segments on my table saw with an 80 tooth Glue-line rip blade. There were a lot of fuzzies. I then swapped the blade with my radial arm saw that had a Frued cross cut blade. It made a big difference in the quality of the cut. I think I got lucky in setting up my Segeasy sled at 7.5 degrees as well. It seems to be holding from one ring to the next. I won't touch it until this project is complete. If I need a different angle for anything else I will make another sled! LOL. Do you have the wedges or how did you set your fences?

I'm hoping to get my first two layers glued to the base today. I will post a picture when I am done.

Glenn, yes I have the wedgies, I ordered the first set listed on the web site it includes 16, 24, 32 & 48 and then order 18 as an addition one. Yes I like the idea of the thicker rings in your case. You might want to consider 3/8", just thinking out loud, would be no problem turning down to correct thickness once it is mounted.
 
Good point Bob, better to much than not enough.

I mounted my first two rings this morning. I use my Jumbo Jaws to hold the ring using only the screws and no bumpers. I then have to change the jaws to hold the base in order to dress the front for the next ring. Then change the jaws again an align the next row.

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This is as far as I will get for the next 4-6 weeks. I will be able to watch your progress and keep reading up on the wealth of knowledge that others are able to pass on.

Thank you everyone who has responded so far.
 
Well two things accomplished today.
I got a ring splitting jig made for the band saw.

Then reworked the WTP file so the rings are now in groups.
Then cut the segments for rings 2 & 3
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Glued up and in the press
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I think we are looking good
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Used Titebond II extend and even with using that it was getting pretty tight on some of the joints.
 
The parts were much easier to work with being thicker. I think the finished thickness ended up a little thicker than 7/8". Again I want to thank you guys for the suggestion, this worked so much better.
 
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Great progress Bob, that should really speed up the process. What does the Bandsaw jig look like (for future projects)?

Quite the press you have there!
 
Also, I did not know there is a Titebond II extended, its more white and is suppose to dry more translucent and a little stronger than Titebond Original extended. Has anyone else try this glue
 
Great progress Bob, that should really speed up the process. What does the Bandsaw jig look like (for future projects)?

Quite the press you have there!
The jig is just a tall fence to ride the ring on and a push board to keep my fingers out of the way of the blade.
 
OK could not wait went and sanded the glue up still looks good. Now hope I don't screw it up when I split it.

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