• Are you looking for a coupon code to buy my software? You can get one from lots of 3rd party sites but they won't work. My software never goes on sale and has never been discounted. The only coupon codes that are given is when I give a club presentation and I offer a discount to the attendees. Other than that, everyone pays the same price.

Segments calculations

S

Svassa

Guest
Do you use some software for it?

I'd like some that uses the metric system as thats what I work with here in Sweden.

Inner/outer diameter and so on.

I use trial and error now. Cut one piece, and draw around it on a piece of paper to see how big it would be if completed.
 
The software does give the ability to use metric under the option feature. FWIW, I have just started using metric because it is much easier to set up my jigs and tablesaw. The only problem (solved with a bit in internet shopping) was finding metric only tape measures and rulers. Whether using imperial or metric I don't like the dual ones.
 
I have historically used graph paper, including some custom graph paper I created just for the process. Now that my PC is working I will try to write up the process and post it for others. I found it was a great way to learn what the software (like Woodturner Pro) is doing.

Do you use some software for it?

I'd like some that uses the metric system as thats what I work with here in Sweden.

Inner/outer diameter and so on.

I use trial and error now. Cut one piece, and draw around it on a piece of paper to see how big it would be if completed.
 
Do you use some software for it?

I'd like some that uses the metric system as thats what I work with here in Sweden.

Inner/outer diameter and so on.

I use trial and error now. Cut one piece, and draw around it on a piece of paper to see how big it would be if completed.
Hi Svassa, i dont use software but i draw out my project in a full size half view, then step off vertically using whatever wood thickness i am using, then i use thin ply cut into pie shapes using a 10" protractor and mark off the angles for how many segments are needed, its then an easy job to see what your segment lengths are etc, its harder to describe than do, cheers Dave NE
 
As Bob B said, WTP can be set for metric.

Start WTP.
Go to File , Options.
The Option window will pop open.
Select in the "Numeric Display" the measurement output you want by clicking on the button circle next to.
Imperial decimal inch, nearest 1/64th, nearest , nearest 1/32th, nearest 1/16th, or Metric decimal millimeters.
 
Help! I just finished cutting 480 pieces for a bowl I'm working on. All rings are 32 pieces (using the correct wedge) First couple of ring perfect, however, for some odd reason, the third ring is off. If I remove two pieces, the ring closes nicely. What did I do wrong? I double checked the angle with the wedgie again, thinking it moved on me, however, it was still spot on. I'm thinking possible dust built up between the wedgie and the blank while cutting? Anyone know what could have doused this?
 
If the first two rings were spot on, and the fences didn't move. My guess is
- As you stated dust build up.
- possible the stock sides were not perfectly parallel. That is, did the stock you were cutting the segments have a tapper?
- the stock was warped not allowing full contact along the fences. or due to dust build up.

Did you try cutting them again using a different piece of stock? If so, how did they come out?

Even with the wedge sled, you could build half rings, then touch up the two halves on a disc sander to square them up. This is not bad to do if the gap between the two halves is not large.
 
Another likely candidate is the stop. When you slide the wood against the stop, if it is not locked firmly in place, it can move and if it moves just a 10th of an inch, you will have a gap, even though the angles are cut perfectly.

Unfortunately, this is a bit like the golf book '97 things to remember on your downswing'. There's just a lot of variables in cutting segments and if any one is off, the entire ring is golf's equivalent to a duck hook.
 
A small tip on stops. Cut them so the edge is long grain not end grain. The end grain from the segment can cause just a bit of drag against an end grain stop and screw it a tad.
 
another tip on stops.

place a threaded insert in the stop. Then insert a bolt that has had the head ground smooth. you can make micro adjustments by turning the bolt in or out to decrease or increase the stops length.
 
another tip on stops.

place a threaded insert in the stop. Then insert a bolt that has had the head ground smooth. you can make micro adjustments by turning the bolt in or out to decrease or increase the stops length.

Could you post a photo of that setup? Trying to see how that would work with my stop. I'm using the stop from the segeasy site (i think). A micro adjust would be very helpful.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top