• Are you looking for a coupon code to buy my software? You can get one from lots of 3rd party sites but they won't work. My software never goes on sale and has never been discounted. The only coupon codes that are given is when I give a club presentation and I offer a discount to the attendees. Other than that, everyone pays the same price.

table sled cutting segments

martyn

PRO Member
this is my table saw sled i built for my axminster ts250 table saw, ives used two layers of 12mm birch plywood laminted together, they run on nylon runner on the table saw grooves.
i used a router to put 2 arched t grooves in the bed in which the fence swings and locks in. The right side of the saw there is a adjustable stop. From this jig i have been able to create excellent fitting segments although i have considered make a couple of dedicated jigs for different angles as i feel i might be more conveinent although once set correctly this jig works a charm. timbers have to be planed straight and true as any slight bend can ruin the segmented ring even if the fence is set correctly as i've found out.

what do you think, questions comment welcome of course

20141012_155045.jpg
 
Looks like a good sled. If it works for you, then that is all that really matters.

Your comment regarding straight and true stock is spot on.

You may want to consider adding a front/sacrificial fence front to your fence (mdf). Plywood may dent, chip out over time.
Consider having the left side (holds the stock) higher than your cut off site of the table. Your table seems to give you a zero clearance slot. Build an angle ramp on the cut off side, as you cut the segments they will fall away from the blade. Malcolm Tibbits books has a good example.

Almost all sleds need tweeked for a good miter cut. I have a incra miter express sled that I use with a good miter gauge. Works well.

You may be interested in this set of vids from this site.

http://www.segeasy.com/wedgies.htm
 
thank you for your comment the angled ramp idea on the offcut side is a awesome idea i'd never thought of that(such a simple idea) save risking the pinkies moving the segments thankyou, ill be impliementing that asap, i have read ray allens book on segmented turning that what got me going i might have a butchers at malcolm tibbits book.
Had a look at that link that sled looks very interestin to say the least, can it really be that easy to get perfect rings?
 
thank you for your comment the angled ramp idea on the offcut side is a awesome idea i'd never thought of that(such a simple idea) save risking the pinkies moving the segments thankyou, ill be impliementing that asap, i have read ray allens book on segmented turning that what got me going i might have a butchers at malcolm tibbits book.
Had a look at that link that sled looks very interestin to say the least, can it really be that easy to get perfect rings?

It could be. I have not tried making the seg sled. One other wood forums has a discussion and it seems once the sled is set up , yep, good results.
I plan to modify my miter express and try out the seg concept of two fences.

That said having good stock to cut from (straight, true, no warps) adds to the chances of the segments coming out correctly. I can get perfect rings from the miter express. When the rings do not come out right, most of the time is because the saw blade was not 90 degree to the table, the stock was not perfectly straight with parallel sides, letting small shaving get between the fence and the board, slippage during the cut.

one other tip for you sled. I would put sandpaper 120 or 80 grit) on the fence. It helps keep the wood from shifting during the cut.
 
this is my table saw sled i built for my axminster ts250 table saw, ives used two layers of 12mm birch plywood laminted together, they run on nylon runner on the table saw grooves.
i used a router to put 2 arched t grooves in the bed in which the fence swings and locks in. The right side of the saw there is a adjustable stop. From this jig i have been able to create excellent fitting segments although i have considered make a couple of dedicated jigs for different angles as i feel i might be more conveinent although once set correctly this jig works a charm. timbers have to be planed straight and true as any slight bend can ruin the segmented ring even if the fence is set correctly as i've found out.

what do you think, questions comment welcome of course

View attachment 340

Hey Martyn,

Have you given thought to adding toggle clamps to hold your work down, I think mounting a couple on top of the swinging arm would work great and be much safer.

Here is a pic of the toggles I use.

Timtoggle.jpgtoggle.jpg
 
Hey Martyn,

Have you given thought to adding toggle clamps to hold your work down, I think mounting a couple on top of the swinging arm would work great and be much safer.

Here is a pic of the toggles I use.

TimView attachment 346View attachment 346

hi tim ive never felt the need for toggle clamps in this situation although i have no dout that it would make it safer, i have watched a bunch of videos on the seg-easy sled and have decided to build it as i am now convinced it is the way to go ill have toggle clamps on that i think, thanks for the interest
 
ok, thanks for the comments on my table saw jig I've since been away and made a new one taking all you tips with me, this one is one based on the Incra build it system for lamination process when i get around to doing that , and the segeasy wedgies method with duel fences for seg rings . I have also got a couple of hold down clamps. On the off cut side I've now got a drop/ ramp so the wedges fall away from the saw (brilliant, thanks mfisher:D ) i bought the set of wedgies from segeasy but they haven't turned up yet but using a digital red gem angle measurer i set my fences to 30 deg and can confirm a perfect ring first cut. Brilliant
20150115_190609.jpg20150115_185705.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20150115_185640.jpg
    20150115_185640.jpg
    91.9 KB · Views: 118
  • 20150115_185716.jpg
    20150115_185716.jpg
    90.6 KB · Views: 113
Last edited:
Back
Top