Digital Thin Rip Jig for Table Saw

[Brent Dalrymple]

I needed a better thin rip jig to use with the southwestern feature in Lamination Pro, so I designed and built the one shown in the photo and diagram attached. Here are a few notes on construction:

1. This jig is dimensioned for the Jet Supersaw, on which the miter slots are 7 inches from the saw blade. Many table saws have different slot to blade distances, so the dimensions should be changed accordingly.
2. The digital gauge I used is the iGaging Snap Depth Gauge ($19.95 from amazon.com), but a dial indicator or even a tire tread depth gauge would work as long as its range is at least 0-3/4” or so. Any strip thicker than ¾” can be safely ripped with the strip between the fence and the saw blade using a good “pusher”.
3. The aluminum stock originally came from the local Home Depot. I used the stock I happened to have on hand so the 1.5” wide bar may be a bit of overkill, but it works nicely. The 1” x 1” aluminum angle supports the iGaging digital gauge along nearly its full length with the mounting hole placed just right and a couple of washers used as spacers between the gauge mounting hole and the angle.
4. The miter bar is from the Rockler Miter Bar Hardware Kit (#26993, $7.99 plus S&H), which includes 2 bars, two clamping screws, two clamping knobs, and two washers. I drilled holes near the ends of the bars and countersinked the holes for a #8-32 FHMS so the bar is firmly attached to the plywood board using the two #8 FHMSs and Nyloc nuts. This means that you don’t have to worry about whether or not the jig is perpendicular to the saw blade.
5. I used a small metric bearing, metric machine screw, and metric Nyloc nut but any small bearing will do. I suggest the OD of the bearing should be no more than about an inch.

 

[mfisher]

Nice job. Thanks for sharing. I may end up building one.

 

[John Payton]

HELP..!!..my brain must be on vacation, because for the life of me I just can't seem to figure out how you use this..!!..your drawing is awesome and with the picture to reinforce the drawing it is nothing short of perfect...but for some reason i just can't visualize how you use this to cut strips ;(
sure would like a little help, because it looks like it could be very useful..


johnp

 

[John Payton]

Oh, and forgot to mention...that iGaging snap depth dauge is on sale at Rockler currently (7/25/2014) for $12.99
http://www.rockler.com/igaging-snap-depth-gauge

 

[Wayne Miller]

The stock to be cut is placed between your fence and the roller bearing which is set to the desired cut width. After making the cut you move the fence to bring the stock up to the bearing again without moving the setup. Then make repetitive cuts as needed. Actually quite simple once you understand.

A very important part of this process, especially if you are cutting long strips to make multiple patterns, is to make sure that your trunion is adjusted to the blade and that your fence is adjusted square to the blade. I try to keep an adjustment of .001" over a 24" piece of stock (my usual length of cut).

If you don't want to build one of these you can get them from both Rockler and Infinity Cutting. They are manual not digital so you need some trial and error to do the set-up, but once set they repeat well.

 

[John Payton]

Wayne,
You said, "...Actually quite simple once you understand...".
Yep, real head slapper it was. Didn't sink in until i looked at the one that Rockler offers...but after understanding the process, your jig should be much more accurate and easier to get repeatability with.
Thanks for posting it...and the help..!!

 

[Brent Dalrymple]

John: I've been out of town so couldn't reply to your first post. Wayne described its use well. The use of this rip jig avoids the danger of trying to cut thin strips with the blade very close to the fence. I built my own not only for improved accuracy, but because none of the rip gauges on the market would work the Jet SuperSaw, where the miter slots are 7" away from the blade.

 

[John Payton]

Thanks BDalrymple..appreciate the reply. The parts from Rockler just arrived, and now I just need the time to put it together. Once i figured out the concept it did seem fairly simple...but most/best of all, should be very accurate.

Johnp

 

[Johnrheyd]

There is another way of doing this, more of a manual method, but Malcolm Tibbetts demonstrates this in one of his DVD instruction programs. He uses a squared board to which you butt up another piece which you want to cut. Then using masking tape you run a strip down the length of the two boards at the joint for stability. Then by adjusting the width of the cut - to the squared board plus the thickness of your strip - you can get pretty accurate thin strips of wood. It uses a lot of masking tape but it is an effective way to cut safely thin strips. I typically do this and will run then through my drum sander to finalize the thickness if I'm not satisfied with the cut strip. Just another way to skin the cat.