Marking top of board

Apollo1617

Apollo1617

Member
After watching hours of videos on segmented turning, I'm confused on the line some put on the board top. Some put it on top & side. Some use 2 fences. Some use 1. Some flip the board on 1 fence. Some mark the edge & use 2 fences keeping the edge line on the fence.
Is this personal preference?? I use 1 fence (I have 2) & draw a line down the top of the board. Then I flip it with each cut.
 
The lines on the top and one side of the board is to help keep track when you are cutting using the segeasy two fence method.

Here is a link to the segeasy site.

The line on the side of the board is always put against the fence when moving from one fence to another when cutting.
when assembling the segments the line on the side is alternated between being on the outside of the ring and the inside.
Reason for this is by assembling the segments this way it corrects the error when the saw blade is not at a perfect 90 degrees.

When assembling the ring the line on top of segments will always be on top.

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Regarding the 1 fence vs the 2 fence method: With either method, you must have some angle set absolutely correct. I find the 2 fence method easier to set the angle because I put a known correct master plate (when I'm doing 12-segment rings, that master plate is a 30-60-90 drafting triangle) between the solid and straight fences. How they are aligned to the blade is largely irrelevant. In fact, sometimes they are misaligned as an artistic choice. Getting a precise angle between a straight solid fence and where a jagged blade will cut when it's spinning is a challenge I choose to dodge. Any error in setting the fence angle is doubled in the segment.

Regarding where the line goes: The line is only there to help you keep track of how the cuts were made so that you can get the segments alternating and canceling errors. Where you put them is up to you so long as it shows which face goes up and which face goes down. Just be consistent to yourself.
 
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So 1 fence & a line on top of board to be cut & flipping it every cut is ok? Assembly is the same. Top of ring would have line, no line, line..etc
 
Apollo1617 said:
So 1 fence & a line on top of board to be cut & flipping it every cut is ok? Assembly is the same. Top of ring would have line, no line, line..etc
Click to expand...
I don't know because I've never used the 1-fence method. It would be a learning experiment to set the saw at some angle noticeably different from 90 degrees, cut a ring's worth of segments, and see how (or even if) they fit together.
 
Apollo1617 said:
So 1 fence & a line on top of board to be cut & flipping it every cut is ok? Assembly is the same. Top of ring would have line, no line, line..etc
Click to expand...

Like Ken it I use the two fence system and it has been years since I did the single fence system.

Using a 1 fence system you would flip the board after each cut.

I provided a link to Segeasy video. The first part of the video does the one fence system.
the segments are put together the way the photo is shown in post 2.
the marking for the top is up for all segments.
the side marking alternates from outside to inside.

The only difference between using 1 fence or two is with one fence the board is flipped for each cut
the two fence system the board is not flipped. It is just moved from one fence to another.

Take a look at the segeasy videos. They are very informative.
 
"The only difference between using 1 fence or two is with one fence the board is flipped for each cut
the two fence system the board is not flipped. It is just moved from one fence to another."

Either way the board has to be handled between cuts. I have the Wedge Pro II so 2 fences are available but I've been using 1. Seems easier.
I've been watching Lamination Pro videos but I don't get it.
If I wanted to make a pattern (chevron or whatever) I'm thinking on strip 1&5=1/4" Walnut, 2 & 4 =1/8" Maple & strip 3=1/2" Purple heart. Would this work in something like the Fruit bowl you designed for me??
 
Apollo1617 said:
"The only difference between using 1 fence or two is with one fence the board is flipped for each cut
the two fence system the board is not flipped. It is just moved from one fence to another."

Either way the board has to be handled between cuts. I have the Wedge Pro II so 2 fences are available but I've been using 1. Seems easier.
I've been watching Lamination Pro videos but I don't get it.
Click to expand...
A single fence system is what you would use to cut your laminate.

Apollo1617 said:
If I wanted to make a pattern (chevron or whatever) I'm thinking on strip 1&5=1/4" Walnut, 2 & 4 =1/8" Maple & strip 3=1/2" Purple heart. Would this work in something like the Fruit bowl you designed for me??
Click to expand...
- Not enough information Apollo.
- In Lamination Pro you are going to glue up the laminate.
- What you are not telling us is the ring SEL and the segment thickness (how tall).
- you also are not providing the information on what angle you plan to cut the laminate.

- attach your lamination pro file and provide the ring SEL.
In lamination pro we want to set the repeating pair to be as close to SEL as we can get it.
the lamination board needs to be wide enough to make the segment height for the ring.

imo. the center strip of purpleheart is too wide and you need the walnut strips to be wider.
 
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Wow. How would I find the SEL? Would that be after I transferred the lamination to WTP? I was thinking 2" tall by 1"wide ( a complete chevron would be 2" x 2". I thought I could just glue up strips without knowing anything else. Kinda build the bowl around it. Gotta love the newbies eh Mike??
I agree with the Purpleheart width. I was looking at my stock & I saw I had Purpleheart & Yellowheart & thought I could incorporate it into something. lol
 
Apollo1617 said:
Wow. How would I find the SEL?
Click to expand...
The Segment Edge Length (SEL) is from either WTP, SP summary cut list for the ring or from doing the math yourself. You need to know the Outside diameter of the ring.
Apollo1617 said:
Would that be after I transferred the lamination to WTP?
Click to expand...
You need to design your bowl first in WTP or SP
From the cutlist/summary you can get the measurements you need to use in LP. that is the SEL.
Apollo1617 said:
I was thinking 2" tall by 1"wide ( a complete chevron would be 2" x 2". I thought I could just glue up strips without knowing anything else. Kinda build the bowl around it. Gotta love the newbies eh Mike??
Click to expand...
It would be better to design you bowl first. WTP or SP in the summary will provide the amount of material you need to build each ring. You do need to add a safety factor of a few inches to the material board length
Apollo1617 said:
I agree with the Purpleheart width. I was looking at my stock & I saw I had Purpleheart & Yellowheart & thought I could incorporate it into something. lol
Click to expand...
Think of the center strip in LP would provide the main accent line in LP.
===================

Some basics.
WTP or a SP is a program to design a segmented vessel/bowl.

Lamination Pro is a program to create designs from a laminate that can be used for a featured ring or an accent ring.
If you are going to use LP for a featured ring you need to know the dimensions of that ring. That is the Outside diameter and how high the ring is.
You get the dimension of the ring from the cut list from either WTP or SP.

The process.
Design your bowl in WTP or SP.
From WTP or SP you can get the SEL and height of the segment for the featured ring.
 
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