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Stomper Station

Brent Dalrymple

PRO Member
I decided that anything as clever and useful as Lloyd's Segment Stomper with Longworth Centering Jig deserved a place of its own in my shop rather than just a hole in a table or cabinet that was built for some other purpose, so I built a "Stomper Station". It is 15" deep by 18" wide with a 12" folding shelf on the right-hand side that provides a little more work space when needed. The drawer holds some adapters I made of MDF to fit the 10-lb weight to my face plates, all of which happen to have different sized collars. The station is on wheels so I can roll it out of the way when it is idle. Two of the wheels are of the locking type so it can be made to stay put. So far, it is working well for me.
 

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Click the same picture. He replaced the original with a new picture.

That is a great design, Brent. I am going to make one myself. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Lloyd
 
Very nice station. I've incorporated the stomper and longworth chuck into my ring press. Not as elegant as your station, but it works very well for me. See following pictures. stomper in ring press.jpg longworth chuck in action with stomper.jpg stomper with easy seg.jpg Gives me the benefits of the stomper and chuck and the ability to easily apply pressure. I mounted the chuck on a piece of melamine and can rotate the whole setup while in the chuck to check alignment before final pressure. As shown, also works well with easy seg plates
 
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Lloyd, you asked for feedback after using your Stomper, Longworth Chuck and Seg Easy plates. I love and use all of them. I personalized my stomper a little bit.

I built my stomper per your video with one spring from the sprinkler and then read about your HD Stomper. I wanted both, but only had a place for one. I used the HD Stomper to make my first segmented vessel and it worked great. When I started assembling my open segment bowl, I found the springs to be too strong. So I cut the 1 1/4" PVC 2" shorter and glued on a threaded coupler and then screwed on a threaded cap. Now I can unscrew the cap and add or remove a spring and have the correct resistance for each project. I do like to have alternatives! This only added a few cents to the cost of making the Stomper and I don't need to use any tools to make the change.

The other thing I did was to move the white ring from the sprinkler post and attach it to the bottom of the post where it was trapped between the bottom of the post and the top of the spring. Originally, I had the white spacer on the post, but when the spring pushed the post up, the spacer went to the top of the PVC and stayed there as there was nothing to force it back to the bottom and keep it centered. Doing this trapped the centering ring between the bottom of the post and the top of the spring and it travels up and down with the post. I also drilled a 13/16" hole in my table and that took all of the play (movement, looseness) out of the post. I realize that the 13/16" bit size is not included in Forstner bit sets, but I had one from a prior project.

Because I used a 1/4" thick floating base in my segmented project, I did not want to drill an 1/8" hole in it to center the Stomper. So I turned a waste block down to a diameter that was smaller than my first ring that captured my floating base. Using the lathe drill chuck in the tail stock I drilled the 5/8" hole 1/8" deep in it and then drilled a 1/8" hole all of the way through the block. I removed the block from the faceplate and used 3 small pieces of double sided tape to adhere it to the floating base. I mounted my floating base and used a center with a point in the tail stock to center the waste block and press the double sided tape onto the floating base. I used this to mount each of my other rings with the Stomper and when they were assembled, I screwed a drywall screw into the 1/8" hole a couple of turns and grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled it off of the floating base with no damage. I can re use and re turn the scrap block as needed or make a new one. Just another way to accomplish the task.

I used both the Seg Easy plates and the Longworth Chuck to assemble the Tornado Bowl you posted and they both worked flawlessly.

Thanks for all that you do to help so many of us enjoy making segmented turnings.
Chuck
 
Lloyd, you asked for feedback after using your Stomper, Longworth Chuck and Seg Easy plates. I love and use all of them. I personalized my stomper a little bit.

I built my stomper per your video with one spring from the sprinkler and then read about your HD Stomper. I wanted both, but only had a place for one. I used the HD Stomper to make my first segmented vessel and it worked great. When I started assembling my open segment bowl, I found the springs to be too strong. So I cut the 1 1/4" PVC 2" shorter and glued on a threaded coupler and then screwed on a threaded cap. Now I can unscrew the cap and add or remove a spring and have the correct resistance for each project. I do like to have alternatives! This only added a few cents to the cost of making the Stomper and I don't need to use any tools to make the change.

The other thing I did was to move the white ring from the sprinkler post and attach it to the bottom of the post where it was trapped between the bottom of the post and the top of the spring. Originally, I had the white spacer on the post, but when the spring pushed the post up, the spacer went to the top of the PVC and stayed there as there was nothing to force it back to the bottom and keep it centered. Doing this trapped the centering ring between the bottom of the post and the top of the spring and it travels up and down with the post. I also drilled a 13/16" hole in my table and that took all of the play (movement, looseness) out of the post. I realize that the 13/16" bit size is not included in Forstner bit sets, but I had one from a prior project.

Because I used a 1/4" thick floating base in my segmented project, I did not want to drill an 1/8" hole in it to center the Stomper. So I turned a waste block down to a diameter that was smaller than my first ring that captured my floating base. Using the lathe drill chuck in the tail stock I drilled the 5/8" hole 1/8" deep in it and then drilled a 1/8" hole all of the way through the block. I removed the block from the faceplate and used 3 small pieces of double sided tape to adhere it to the floating base. I mounted my floating base and used a center with a point in the tail stock to center the waste block and press the double sided tape onto the floating base. I used this to mount each of my other rings with the Stomper and when they were assembled, I screwed a drywall screw into the 1/8" hole a couple of turns and grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled it off of the floating base with no damage. I can re use and re turn the scrap block as needed or make a new one. Just another way to accomplish the task.

I used both the Seg Easy plates and the Longworth Chuck to assemble the Tornado Bowl you posted and they both worked flawlessly.

Thanks for all that you do to help so many of us enjoy making segmented turnings.
Chuck

Chuck I did pretty much the same thing when using thin bases - but I attached a thin piece of baltic birch ply to the base of my bowl with a dab of hot glue, mounted it on the lathe - then used my 5/8 forstner bit in my tail stock to drill a 3/32 deep hole in the plywood. This allowed me to center sucessive rings with no problem. I think I'll try the double stick tape next time.
 
Thanks for the update Chuck and John,
I've also made a couple changes to the way I make the Stomper. I now don't use the white rubber centering piece from the Orbit unit. Instead, I just drill a 13/16" hole in the table cap and that works as good or better. I also don't use the white ring that us used by the Orbit unit for centering the plunger from the bottom. Instead, I use a short piece of 1" PVC that fits nicely over the plunger and is a close fit to the inside diameter of the 1-1/4" PVC housing. Without the white rubber piece, this 1" PVC can't get trapped and so it always stays at the bottom of the plunger.

I'm glad that you're enjoying the Stomper System.

Lloyd
 
Hi... I just super glued the white ring to the bottom of the plunger...works pretty good so far
 
I decided that anything as clever and useful as Lloyd's Segment Stomper with Longworth Centering Jig deserved a place of its own in my shop rather than just a hole in a table or cabinet that was built for some other purpose, so I built a "Stomper Station". It is 15" deep by 18" wide with a 12" folding shelf on the right-hand side that provides a little more work space when needed. The drawer holds some adapters I made of MDF to fit the 10-lb weight to my face plates, all of which happen to have different sized collars. The station is on wheels so I can roll it out of the way when it is idle. Two of the wheels are of the locking type so it can be made to stay put. So far, it is working well for me.

That is pretty cool. I have mine sharing the use of my folding B&D Shop/workmate - which works but it takes up space I could be using for other things - plus I can't use the Workmate for other things. I like your idea and plan to build one like it for my shop. Thanks for the great idea.
 
Chuck,

I too have a dislike of putting a hole inside my project to center the post of the Stomper and have been trying to devise another way to do it. Had a couple ideas, but like your idea the best, including the method you used to remove the waste block from the from the base of the project.

If at all possible, could you make some photos of your approach to the problem. That would be very helpful.

I assume that the height of the waste block is any dimension as long as it is less than the height of the #2 ring.

Did you have any problem with the new ring being slightly out of line with the others when it came to the glueing?

Thank you so much for the help.

Cheers,

Art
 
Art, I got your message. Give me a couple of days to get some things completed here and I will post the requested info. I am still amazed that I ever had time to work, with as busy as I am in retirement. Chuck
 
Hello Art! Here are a few photos of my waste block that I use instead of drilling a hole in my floating base. I had to fake a couple of the photos as I do not have a segmented bowl with a floating base to demonstrate, but I believe the photos will help understand the process I use. Because I used a 1/4" thick floating base in my segmented project, I did not want to drill an 1/8" hole in it to center the Stomper. So I turned a waste block down to a diameter that was smaller than my ring that captured my floating base. I used a 1/2" piece of poplar which was thinner than my capture ring. IMG_2474.jpgUsing the lathe drill chuck in the tail stock I drilled the 5/8" hole 1/8" deep in it and then drilled a 1/8" hole all of the way through the block. I removed the block from the faceplate and used 3 small pieces of double sided tape to adhere it to the floating base. IMG_2473.jpgI mounted my floating base and used a center with a point in the tail stock to center the waste block and press the double sided tape onto the floating base. IMG_2475.jpgI used this to mount each of my other rings with the Stomper and when they were assembled, I screwed a drywall screw into the 1/8" hole a couple of turns and grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled it off of the floating base with no damage. IMG_2478.jpgI can re use and re turn the scrap block as needed or make a new one. Just another way to accomplish the task. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
Chuck,
Sent you two emails last night in response to your great message from my iPhone. Wasn't sure that was the way to go. Today, on my desk computer, it doesn't appear in the Forum. Will try to copy it here. Also, what is the best way to bring in the photos like you did in your message. Have tried, but with no success.
Cheers,
Art
 
Copy from my iphone...

Chuck,
Thank u so much for the detailed response for my request. The photos came out beautifully. I fully understand what u did. Was surprised at the height of the waste block as well as the "small" size of the tape. If I had used the usual amount of tape, I probably would have pulled the screw out of the block and the block would still be attached. I appreciate the effort u put in the reply.
I have learned something about gluing the rings together that I would like to pass on to u. It has worked well for me.
I got a syringe from my dentist. It has a curved tip. It allows two small beads of Elmer's wood glue to be placed on each segment of the ring before joining the mating ring under pressure. Have not had to use Lloyd's pipe cleaning method. Have taken pics that I'd be happy to send u if u would like. Doubt that I can send them on this iPhone but could do it on my desk computer tomorrow.
Thanks again
Art

Chuck
Nice looking bowl. What kind of wood did u use?
Will send photos as soon as I learn how to put them into a message.
Cheers
Art
 
Art, I did not receive the two emails you sent from your iphone, but I did see where you posted the copies of them here. Thanks for your kind words. Lloyd may have another way of inserting the photos than I do, but here is how I did it. I clicked on the Reply button and wrote the text of the message. I then placed the cursor at the end of the sentence where I wanted to insert the photo. I clicked on the "Insert Image" Icon, which is the 4th Icon from the end, at the top of the Quick Reply screen. On the next screen I highlighted "From Computer", which is the default setting for me. Click on "Select Files". You need to navigate to where you have the photos on your computer and then click on the desired photo. Click on "Open" and click on "Upload File". You will see the colored bar showing the status of the upload and the screen will take you back to your message. Don't worry when you see the actual photo instead of the name of the photo in your message. When you post your reply the image will convert to the file name like you saw in my message and it will be where you want it to appear. Art, this sounds much more complex than it is and the process is made up of several simple steps. Gosh, that sounds a lot like segmented woodturning!! The woods I used in the bowl in the previous post were Maple, Bubinga, Holly and Ebony. I like your idea of applying glue with a syringe for your open segment bowl. Yes, please send photos, I always love to learn something new especially when it is a better way to do something. Finally, if you are just posting a photo of a completed project, you can leave your cursor at the end of your message and follow the same steps as above and the photo will be attached to the bottom of the message. Here is an example. This is a photo of my "Segmented Flat Wood", also known as Intarsia. I cut the individual pieces of wood, fit them together, raise and lower individual pieces, shape them and glue them together. This is my original Intarsia pattern based on several of the lions we have seen while in Africa. I call him my "King of the Savannah".King of the Savannah Desktop Photo.jpg
 
Chuck
I use open rings with solid rings. In this case I wanted to create a feature section with an open ring in the middle. I have the open ring in the form. IMG_1815.jpgThe syringe
 
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