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Cut segments size discrepancy
- Thread starter AlanLevin
- Start date
How are you cutting your segments?
Looks like either the segment edge length or miter angle is varying between segments.
- Make sure to keep the fence clean of sawdust. (a small shaving can modify the angle)
- Make sure the end of your stock is clean of fibers to make sure it is squares up with your SEL block.
- Check your SEL on your segments. Reject those that are way off. (small or large)
- Make sure your stock is squared up and sides are parallel.
I use a segeasy sled and wedgies to set the miter angle.
Title: Segmentology
Looks like either the segment edge length or miter angle is varying between segments.
- Make sure to keep the fence clean of sawdust. (a small shaving can modify the angle)
- Make sure the end of your stock is clean of fibers to make sure it is squares up with your SEL block.
- Check your SEL on your segments. Reject those that are way off. (small or large)
- Make sure your stock is squared up and sides are parallel.
I use a segeasy sled and wedgies to set the miter angle.
Title: Segmentology
Picture needs to be rotated 90*
Thanks for the info on how your cutting segments.
I would look at the SEL of your segments. The segments that are further in (smaller circle) have to have a smaller SEL.
My guess is something is causing the issue in the stack cutting.
In one of Tom Lohman vids I see him checking each segment SEL after stack cutting. Not sure what tolerance he used but it is clear that he sorts and creates short and longer piles.
I would look at the SEL of your segments. The segments that are further in (smaller circle) have to have a smaller SEL.
My guess is something is causing the issue in the stack cutting.
In one of Tom Lohman vids I see him checking each segment SEL after stack cutting. Not sure what tolerance he used but it is clear that he sorts and creates short and longer piles.
GrahamJ46
PRO Member
The benefits of the Segeasy sled and wedgies are:
* Even if the blade is not perfectly square to the table it is self correcting as long as you make the ring with all of the same top faces pointing up or down - mark the top of the board before cutting so you can't get it wrong.
* Even if if the center of the wedgie is not at exactly 90 deg to the blade, again it is self correcting since the misalignment is the same on both cut faces of the wedge - again marking the top surface will ensure self-correction.
* Accurately made wedgies will give you a perfect ring every time as long as you have a well set up table saw and a sharp blade with lots of teeth.
It doesn't take long to make the sled and you can either make your own wedgies or buy them. When I first started I was making ½ rings because of concern that I might have gaps. As soon as I realized it was not necessary with the right setup, I always make full rings and so far (touch lots of wood) I have never had a single problem with gaps in a ring ever since.
* Even if the blade is not perfectly square to the table it is self correcting as long as you make the ring with all of the same top faces pointing up or down - mark the top of the board before cutting so you can't get it wrong.
* Even if if the center of the wedgie is not at exactly 90 deg to the blade, again it is self correcting since the misalignment is the same on both cut faces of the wedge - again marking the top surface will ensure self-correction.
* Accurately made wedgies will give you a perfect ring every time as long as you have a well set up table saw and a sharp blade with lots of teeth.
It doesn't take long to make the sled and you can either make your own wedgies or buy them. When I first started I was making ½ rings because of concern that I might have gaps. As soon as I realized it was not necessary with the right setup, I always make full rings and so far (touch lots of wood) I have never had a single problem with gaps in a ring ever since.