Segment kick back

R. Engle

PRO Member
Any help on why small edge length segs are kicking back. They usually hit my length stop and bounce out of sight. Photo of set up is attached.IMG_0317_InPixio.jpg
 

mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
I have had a few "kick back". My guess is that a tooth is catching the segment at the end of the cut. Also the air movement created by the saw blade tends to push small segments.Larger pieces seem to be heavy enough to fall away down the zero clearance ramp. Smaller pieces are lite enough to not break away till the last bit is cut.

- For me slowing my cut speed (how fast I am pushing the sled) seems to help some
- Using a good sharp blade helps
- I have made a zero clearance ramp that provides a bit more support to the cut piece seems to help. The ramp is not the 45 degree angle. The top of the zero clearance is also the same height as the cut sled. Your photo seems to show your zero clearance to be lower.

Even with all this, I still get a piece that sometimes fly's off.
 

R. Engle

PRO Member
Thanks, I'll check the ramp height. My shop is a community shop at a retirement community. So, I'll need to wait till morning to check it. The photo does appear to be low. FYI I am going to make a new sled more to the drawings then the one pictured.
 

Glenn McCarron

PRO Member
I have the same issue at times. I have the common seg easy sled much like yours and my zero clearance ramp is level with the sled, my blade is sharp. I can cut 35 or 40 and not have a single launch but every so often away they go. Don't stand in line with the blade I guess is the moral of the story.
 

Bob Beaupre

Administrator
Staff member
I don't see the positioning of your length stop. How much room between the positioning and the front of the blade do you have enough clearance?
One tip I got from Ray Feltz, when cutting very small segments, and this is a little counter-intuitive, raise your blade as high as it will go. In the position, you have it in your picture the teeth of the blade are moving forward more than downward. By raising the blade the teeth are moving downward more.
 

mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
Nice looking shop Mike. Everything you could possibly want or use. Do you book lathe time or for different tools?
-The only machine that has a sign up is the CNC router. Everything else is pretty much first come. There are times when it is a bit of a wait for the lathes. Get there in the morning and it is not a problem
Cost $35 per year to be a member of the club.
 

R. Engle

PRO Member
The drop off was not even with the sled, it is now. Raising blade height really helped. I also added a cheezy cardboard roof which helped some. Photos attached are the seg set-up and a few of the shop at the retirement community where I live.
 

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mfisher

Super Moderator
Staff member
I like the cardboard. At times I have raised the blade higher than normal and began cutting. I did have less flying segments. Should of made the connection. Glad Bob posted the tip.
 

warren maker

New Member
Sorry guys,
I'ts not my video, but as soon as I saw it, I knew I would have to make one.
If you go to the settings tab at the bottom right side of the you tube video u will c a tab that lets you slow down the vedeo playback speed. Set it to quarter speed and watch how the mechanism works in slow motion,. Its dead simple. Just a couple of rubber bands and triggers.
As the old saying goes, the simplest ideas are sometimes the best.
Having said all that if I get time in the next couple of days I will sit down and draw a cad plan or at least my versionof it.
 
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warren maker

New Member
Heres another great Idea,
Enstead of going to all the hassle of building a Wedgie Sled. Why not just use the Wedgie Angle Plates as the guides.
As u can c, I spend way to much time on u tube, ;)
I cut mine on a cnc router, and they work a treat.
 
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chris.b

New Member
Afraid I chickened out of using a bench saw altogether after a couple of segs in the face and a badly cut thumb which was my own fault.
bought a decent bandsaw and fitted a half inch blade and results are as good without the fear.
I use a ramp with strong magnets underneath which take seconds to fit the bandsaw bed.I know kickbacks are rare on a bandsaw but its still
a worthwhile precaution.
Just love the idea in the video though
 

Bob Beaupre

Administrator
Staff member
With the table saw, this might sound goofy, but with the blade down low most of the blade force is forward toward you. Tends to push the segments forward. When I'm cutting segments I keep my blade as high as I can get it, most of the blade force is more downward. Also, pushing the wood into the blade too fast will cause problems, like flying segments, you are not in a race to get then cut
 

George Randels

PRO Member
I have had a few "kick back". My guess is that a tooth is catching the segment at the end of the cut. Also the air movement created by the saw blade tends to push small segments.Larger pieces seem to be heavy enough to fall away down the zero clearance ramp. Smaller pieces are lite enough to not break away till the last bit is cut.

- For me slowing my cut speed (how fast I am pushing the sled) seems to help some
- Using a good sharp blade helps
- I have made a zero clearance ramp that provides a bit more support to the cut piece seems to help. The ramp is not the 45 degree angle. The top of the zero clearance is also the same height as the cut sled. Your photo seems to show your zero clearance to be lower.

Even with all this, I still get a piece that sometimes fly's off.
I was having the same problem especially with 1/8" thick dividers actually seqs for between larger segs any way I got a new blade from my blade sharpening guy and it's a triple tooth with a negative rake cut on the teeth. this makes all the difference the wing speed is decreased and that litle back edge on the bottom of the tooth being got due to the neg rake means no more annoying catches that chuck those little buggers back
 
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