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Feature ring.

Richard Bruce

PRO Member
What would be the best way to cut a segmented angle on a laminated piece that is 3 inches high 1 inch wide and 5/8 inch thick? Would making some type of sled for the table saw be best? Still learning the process so any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Any cutting of miters (angle) on a saw I use a sled.
You can make your own sled or purchase a commercial one. I happen to use an Incra Miter express. Because of the 2 T tracks it can be modified to accommodate two fences for the segeasy method of cutting.

Lloyd has a vid on making a cutting sled
Title: Table Saw Sled for Open Segment Vessels

Title: Segmentology
I also have two different incra miter gauges. miter 1000SE and the V120.

A couple of other plans or info you may be interested in.
Title: Simple Sled for Perfect Segmented Bowls
Title: Jim Rodgers' Designs in Wood-Techniques
 
Thanks for the help. My next question is will this allow the table saw blade to tilt 6 degrees to cut the full height of the segment which is 3 inches tall.? The segment will be standing up. I may not be wording my question right sorry if I'm not using the right terminology. The video shows the segment laying flat and making a angled cut. My segment will be standing on edge.
 
It sounds to me that you are cutting staves you then need to make a different sled and then you cut on flat.If you google u-tube there are videos showing how to make one I am sorry I don't have link to give you.A basic explanation is you make a sled with an adjustable fence so you can dial in your angle and set your blade to angle required.That is a basic take on how to but you should put toggle hold downs to hold everything safe.Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Peter. I think that must be what I was talking about but didn't know what to call them. A new word learned. I will check out you tube.
 
Not knowing the design your trying to make for the featured ring. Is it possible to build it in two halves? (top/bottom). That way your only cutting a piece that is 1.5" tall. I would check to see what the max height of your saw will cut with a sled or just a miter gauge.

If not, you may be looking at stave cutting.
Title: Staves and Segments

One last thought. You could redesign your vessel so the parts can be cut with what saws you have. That is make it a bit smaller.
 
Thanks. Cutting in half might work. I will try it on some scrap wood and see how it goes. I'm making a feature ring similar to the arrow flask in the gallery.
 
With a zig zag pattern I don't think making the featured ring in two parts will work.
Here is one vid on making a zig zag featured ring.
Here is a tutorial that Lloyd made
 
Noted in your comment for the arrow flask
"Thanks. I'm still playing with the amount of sides I will be making it is going to be a large bowl or vase so I'm thinking maybe 30 segments. I know to cut the angle at 6 degrees, it's just what to use to cut the wood a miter saw or a table saw. "

Keep in mind that the number of segments has really nothing to do with the size of the vessel (bowl). It is the diameter of each ring and the number of segments that determines the segment edge length. That is a ring of 12" could be 4 segments, 8, 36 or whatever number you want.
 
My software does not have the "Details" button shown in the tutorial. I'm using the latest build (3.2.018). Any idea what may be wrong?
 
Actually, now that I look closer the kerf lines are shown by default so I assume the details button was removed??
 
The update I did about a year ago was designed to make the software code of Lamination PRO easier to manage. Through the years, with all the changes I made, the code got increasingly difficult and it was necessary for my own sanity to make some simplifications and eliminate a lot of redundancy. The good news is that no functionality was removed. Everything that it used to do, it still does. It just does it with fewer buttons.

Before, you had to click the Details button which then showed you the board with saw kerfs covering the entire board and it then showed you some details. By removing the details altogether, things got a lot simpler. Now, instead of pressing a button to show you saw kerfs, it ALWAYS shows you the saw kerfs. It just shows you four representative kerfs instead of a screen full of saw kerfs. The detail data that was displayed when you pressed the button now shows all of the time so there is simply no need to have the button and all of the code that went along with it.

Other changes were removing redundant buttons. For example, there were two different buttons you could click to flip or flop and other similar features. Keeping track of the state of the software was made much more difficult because of the redundancies and so I removed everything that was redundant and it made the software easier to use and much easier for me to manage.

Here is the key - if you're watching a video tutorial where the screen shows buttons that you don't have on your screen, remember that you have the latest version and that you have the ability to do everything that was on the older tutorial. Usually it means that the data is already being displayed and that there is simply no need for the now missing buttons.
 
Thanks Lloyd. After I posted my comment I started looking around and realized that was what was going on. I think the upgrades you made to the software have helped tremendously. Honestly, I've had the software for a while now but I haven't done a lot with it so I'm still a novice. I figured I would be a lot further along the learning curve by now but life keeps getting in the way.
 
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