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Open Segment Project "Interwoven"

I would semi-finish it, you have WAY more better access now then a few row from now. Layout the ID of row five so you stop before you hit the glue line, it also gives you a reference for the taper. And I know I don't have to say it BUT take it VERY slow

Thanks Bob. I hope to flatten and sand a bit after lunch. Might even get another row done today if the sanding goes well.
 
Followed Bob's advice and marked the ID of the next row so as not to sand to far. It worked out really well. I took my time and allowed the abrasive to do the work very lightly.

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Just thought I would throw something out there when working with these small S.E.L.'s. I have recently started some small bowls that I will use for Christmas presents ( only 24 segments per row).With a small starting dia., The segment edge lengths for the first 2 rows was about .200 and not very long. Since I'm not the best turner I used the sanding drum to breakdown the corners but I also added clear CA at the joints to give it a little more stability before I turned it. It seemed to work better. I did have one problem but the wood fractured not the joint. Has anyone else tried this? I also made the third row a closed ring to add some stability. The next 4 rows will be open but the S.E.L.'s will be larger as the bowl flares out before the top closed ring. For those new turners who haven't tried working with the small segments you might consider this before you tackle one of the 60 segment designs. You will get some practice without a lot of work.
 
Bluemax, I've considered the CA glue, but you would have to apply it after gluing it in place. I remember when I was talking to the rep from Franklin he said Titebond glue is design to glue cellulose (wood) to cellulose (wood) so if say you have a bad glue joint you can not just put more glue on it and put the parts back together. They will stick but the strength is not there. You really should sand off the dries glue so you are back down to bare wood and then re-glue the parts. Same would go for CA glue if you put CA glue beore you glue the parts together the you are not gluing wood to wood your are gluing CA to wood and will not get as strong of a joint.

Now if you are putting the CA on the segments after they are glued on that another story. Here you have to be careful not to fill the gap between the segments when they come to a small diameter and are almost touching.

Because of these problems I have decided not to try and use CA.
 
Yes I do put it on after the Titebond has dried. I don't know if it makes the glue joint better but I think it helps harden the wood so that it is less likely to break off but that is only a guess. That's why I was asking if anyone had tried it. I use the thin CA so that it doesn't fill the gap. This may not work when you get down to segments that are around .150. Just a thought.
 
Yes I do put it on after the Titebond has dried. I don't know if it makes the glue joint better but I think it helps harden the wood so that it is less likely to break off but that is only a guess. That's why I was asking if anyone had tried it. I use the thin CA so that it doesn't fill the gap. This may not work when you get down to segments that are around .150. Just a thought.

Thanks Bluemax for your thoughts. I think every suggestion is great to concider. I think the CA would definitely harden the small pieces. Maybe at some point I might try it on a test platform. My main concern would be that the glue may bridge the pieces with a very tiny gap. I am also very new to open segment pieces. My only other was a 12 segment project. Going from 12 to 72 provided lots of challenges. I am enjoying it though.
 
I keep having an issue indexing my bowl back to "zero" after it has been taken off the jig to flatten for the next row. Having this inconsistency is going to affect my accuracy in ensuring the subsequent rows are in fact aligned and not stepping forward or backwards. I need to overcome this issue before I proceed any further. Both Tom Lohman and Bob Beaupre have given me some suggestions but if anyone else has dealt with and solved this problem please let me know.
 
While I have not done it I remember a vid by Dennis Edwards with his building an open segment gluing jig. What Jerry did was scribe a mark on the face plate side, mounted the face plate on the turning jig, then made a mark on the index wheel where the face plate mark is. When remounting he would turn the faceplate till the two lines lined up. Take a look and see if you like the idea.

first vid (wav file) 10:30 mark.
Title: Open Segment Jig
 
Well I was able to get back to work on my project today. I think that I have overcome my problem of getting my faceplate back to the zero reference. I installed a bracket and drilled a small hole in the side of the faceplate.

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Once this was done I re-cut row 6 segments. I also had some issue with my Wixey digital caliper in that it was giving me erroneous readings in certain spots. I think that is why my segments were not quite centering a few weeks back. Anyway, row 6 is now on.

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