Open Segment fixture (Manual)

Discussion in 'Jigs and Tools Forum' started by Glenn McCarron, Mar 3, 2017.

  1. Imaginethat

    Imaginethat PRO Member

    Hi Glenn, having been a machinist in a previous life my first thought is to work a keyway like the old timing gears on Chevy's. That would take a milling machine of which I don't have. So I will put my thinking cap on and see what I can figure out.
     
  2. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    That would be awesome Dennis. Tom's design looked like a cup that the faceplate sat down in. The faceplate he used had two flat spots already on it so I'm not sure how he worked it when in the cup.
     
  3. Dennis Shurtz

    Dennis Shurtz PRO Member

    Glenn, did you post a link to a list of materials you purchased for the jig? Again I have been reading a lot of articles and the link may not have been yours. But now I can't seem to locate the link.
     
  4. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    I did not have any list. Other than my Index plate I used a 1", 8TPI, 3" bolt, a nut and a washer. My edge guide I ended up using a Stainless Steel ruler that was very thin yet sturdy enough to place segments. I used T-track for the sliders.

    I think Bob Beaupre had posted a parts list for his fixture where he used rails and bushings to position his platform.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2017
  5. Dennis Shurtz

    Dennis Shurtz PRO Member

    Glenn, letting you know I have received the disk from Trevor. He does amazing work and the price was very reasonable. Now comes the task of building the platform to hold the disk.

    To make sure the disk starts at the exact same spot every time I've been thinking a pin system may be the way to go. Specifically a spring loaded pin to hold the spindle or faceplate in the first position. Not sure of details yet but as I begin building the jig seeing the problem will help realize the fix. As like anything else I have worked on hands on gives me the best solutions.

    Any suggestions you may have or others reading the post would be appreciated. When I get started pictures will be included. I belong to penturners.org and as I have read many times no pictures it didn't happen.
     
  6. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    Dennis I would certainly like to see what you come up with for resetting the faceplate. I would like to see pictures of your jig as you go as well. I have been very busy with some family issues the past few month's but everything is settling down a bit now so hopefully I will be able to devote some time to my jig as well. Once I have the solution!
     
  7. mfisher

    mfisher Super Moderator Staff Member

    I also would be interested in photos of the jig, etc. I have not build mine yet. Like Glenn, due to other commitments my wood turning is going to be pretty slow for the next few months.
     
  8. Malcolm Douglas

    Malcolm Douglas PRO Member

    I have used the same system as Tom Lohman to place the faceplate back in position after sanding. I use a faceplate with a spanner flat especially purchased for this, and it only cost a few pounds. Then I made a hole in the index disc to fir an beneath that fixed some strips to fit flat against the flats of the faceplate spanner flats. Thus the faceplate with the sanded segmented piece can drop straight into the hole and mate with the flats to give precise registration every time. Very little cost in setting this up. Hope this helps. There are some photos on here somewhere of this. Malcolm.
     
  9. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    Thank you Malcolm. I realize the faceplate slides in and is registered by the flats. Is there anything that holds the faceplate down or is this a non-issue. Was your Open Segment Vase (285mm) built on this jig?
     
  10. Imaginethat

    Imaginethat PRO Member

    Thanks Malcom. I like the idea of drop into a square hole. For me I think I like a positive lock down. Using 1" x 8 tip bolt, screw the faceplate on the bolt down to nut (hand tight). Drill a hole for 1/4 x 20 set screw in the coller of the faceplate. Once drilled and tapped, with the faceplate screwed on the bolt use a smaller drill bit, going through the 1/4 x 20 hole making a small counter sunk spot on the bolt where the 1/4 x 20 set screw can set holding the face plate in place. This way I have a place to lock down the faceplate and keep the index plate perfect. Dennis
     
  11. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    I have now installed a bracket on my index plate and drilled a small hole in the rim of my faceplate. This will hopefully overcome my issue with getting the project back to zero reference each time it is off the jig for flattening.

    IMG_2532.JPG IMG_2533.JPG

    For the curious minds the bracket was actually an electrical octagon box cover. I bent it at 90 degrees and used the existing slot that was 3/16 wide. I drilled a 3/16 hole in the faceplate and now my 3/16 drill bit has a new purpose until I find something that same size to use as a pin.
     
  12. Malcolm Douglas

    Malcolm Douglas PRO Member

    There is nothing that holds the index disc and the piece being made other than gravity. They revolve around a centre dowel and that is it. I do not see the need for some mechanical fixing method, and really it is a non issue as gravity does a very good job. Yes, my open segment vase was made on this and was the first piece using this setup. Hope this helps. Malcolm.
     
  13. mfisher

    mfisher Super Moderator Staff Member

    Glenn. Like your idea for indexing back to zero.
     
  14. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    Thanks for your explanation Malcolm. I did try turning a wooden centre spindle that the faceplate slid on and I added some brackets that went up against the small flats on the faceplate. Unfortunately I found my setup still had a bit of play that I was not happy with. The flats on my faceplate were very minimal as well so that did not help. I went back to my centre bolt and added the bracket just in the right spot where the faceplate was just starting to snug up against the nut.

    Anyway, thanks for your help Malcolm, this type of participation on the forum is what makes this site so great!
     
  15. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    Thanks Mike. Now just to find a piece of 3/16 stock to replace the drill bit. Might be easier to buy a new drill bit and cut the other one and add a knob. I finally turned a knob on my main index ( you can see in the picture) after having cut my hand numerous times on that drill bit.
     
  16. Bob Beaupre

    Bob Beaupre Super Moderator Staff Member

    Glenn that should work. Is the faceplate turned down tight now with the pin installed?
     
  17. Glenn McCarron

    Glenn McCarron PRO Member

    It is turned to just hand snug so it bottoms out against the nut to ensure it is straight and stable. From there it is usually in line but a small hand adjustment will line up the pin very easily. I am pleased so far with the modification.
     
  18. Bob Beaupre

    Bob Beaupre Super Moderator Staff Member

    Sounds good Glenn
     

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