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Discussion in 'Jigs and Tools Forum' started by Glenn McCarron, Mar 3, 2017.
It's very interesting how different people solve the same issues.
As well Malcolm, what did you use to mount your faceplate? It appears to be sitting nice and low compared to mine that rest quite high for the first row.
I hope to revisit my jig today ( after I shovel slush) and replace my angle aluminum angle that is about .125 thick. It prevents about the last three rows from being installed with accuracy. I have a piece of stainless steel that is .02 thick. I am hoping this helps.
Hi Glen. The cable is really a printer drive timing belt as an example from eBay "6mm 2GT White Open Toothed Timing Belt PU Pulley Drive Fr 3D Printer Durable". The disc sits about 15 mm above the base. The base has a dowel glued into it and the dowel is sized to fit snugly into the faceplate that the glue block is fixed to. The faceplate has two spanner flats on it which extend about 12mm from the one end. Beneath the disc is a plate with a square cut out that these two flats fit into so that the faceplate can always be registered in the same place. I mark one of the flats and always use that in the same place. All these pieces are free to rotate about the fixed dowel. There is no bearing or lazysusan used. Hopefully the following pictures will show clearly what the set up is. I will be making a slight modification. I found that when assembling higher pieces there is a little wobble. I intend to support the disc around it's edges to stabilise this, otherwise works ok. (The hole in the baseplate is from an earlier version, and now not relevant). Hope this helps. Malcolm.
Thank you Malcolm for the explanation.
Did you create the file that was used for the laser? If so how? Thanks
Rick not sure what you are referring to. Can you explain a bit more?
Glenn he is referring to the index plate file
Rick the file for the laser was created by an acquaintance of mine from our Guild. It was created with Corel Draw.
Any chance you can share the Corel Draw file?
Rick I do not have that file. I had explained what I wanted to my Guild buddy and he worked the magic. I did pay him for his services. He may be interested in other work. I could ask? He was very reasonable.
Thanks. I have my own laser & was just hoping to use the file if possible. Rick
Glen, I've been following the conversation about the index wheel you had made. I would be very interested in having your friend make one for me. Would you ask if he is interested and if so how much?
Hi Dennis. I have sent an email to my acquaintance and fellow Guild member asking if I can share his contact info. I will let you know what I find out. I'm sure you could give him your own specs to suit your needs for the index holes.
Rick, I also asked if he would share the file.
For anyone that is interested the index plate that I had made was produced by Trevor Edis. I have attached his email address should you wish to contact him directly.
Thanks Glen, I sent Trevor an email.
Thanks Glen, I have sent Trevor an email.
Glen, wondering about the use of the lazy susan. Somewhere, not sure where, the lazy susan had a lot of back and forth play, as in side to side. Is there any play with the one you used to put your index wheel on? You did mention using a cast aluminum lazy susan which may be the answer of not having any play.
Hi Dennis. The Lazy Susan I used (Link Below)(12 3/4) was a very heavy duty unit. It was also very smooth turning in comparison to the cheaper ones. I thought it money well spent.
Title: Aluminum Lazy Susan Bearings - Lee Valley Tools
My first attempt to turn a dado on the MDF to centre up the lazy susan did not work out so well as far as being centred. I ended up cutting a new one and positioning it with the centre point of my positioning shelf. From there I drilled the 1" hole in the centre for my bolt. That worked out fine.
The only thing I am not happy with is getting the faceplate back to zero after having it off to flatten the ring. Some folks have come up with shims and index lines. I would like to come up with a system that you simply put the faceplate on and it drops right into position thus eliminating any adjustment. This would be very similar to what Tom Lohman has done.I have not come up with that plan as of yet that does not require a lot of machinist work. I like to solve issues as economically as possible.
Hope that helps. If you have any ideas for my solution please add your comments. I want to solve the problem before i move on with my project.