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Cutting Segments

rtaylor

PRO Member
I bought a Dubby miter sled two years ago at a wood show (great product). Using it for polygons with long sides, frames etc. was no problem I thought the miters were spot on. However when I started cutting very small pieces the closure was very very close but not perfect. Jerry Cole advised me to watch this video. It solved the problem completely for me. My cuts are now near perfect every time. The problem I was having was when the segments became so short that I was relying on the wooden sacrificial block on the Dubby miter bar. If it was not near perfect in line with the miter bar then angles could be off ever so slightlly. This add on fence eliminates that problem. I thought some of you who use the Dubby sled would benefit from it if you were not aware of it. It really solved one of my biggest problems in my segmented project.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrwmCQC-It8
 
OK...I need to chime in cuz I feel strongly about several things in the video, as it applies to segmented woodturning. I like the Dubby idea, and may buy one...but not for cutting segments.

The biggest issue is that he acknowledges early on that he is not a segmented turner. So my gut tells me that he hasn't used his technique to cut hundreds and hundreds of segments. It sounded good on the video, but with lots of practice, I suspect he would modify his recommendations.

First, he should not be reaching in to grab the segments next to a spinning blade. While it is obvious he is being careful, it's really poor practice and is awfully dangerous. When you cut scores (or hundreds) of pieces for a vessel, it is all too easy to get a bit careless. A better approach would be to use the eraser end of a pencil to slide the segment away from the blade.

Second, without using some sort of ramp for the cutoffs to fall away from the blade, they can (and will) occasionally get caught by the spinning blade and get thrown like a bullet across the shop. At the very least, bad words will be said. :) That's why I recommend a sled of some sort, with a piece of scrap wood for a ramp...where the cutoff can be deflected away from the spinning blade after being cut, and there will be zero chance of it getting thrown back at ya.

Finally, I think the way he recommends setting the stop block takes too much time, and is prone to error. I prefer to slide the stop block up to the leading edge of your blade, and clamp it to your table saw fence. Then measure the distance between the stop block and the blade, and adjust the table saw fence till the distance is what you want for the segment length, and lock the fence down. Then slide the stop block back to the front of your table, and you are ready to start cutting segments.

my 2 cents
 
OK...I need to chime in cuz I feel strongly about several things in the video, as it applies to segmented woodturning. I like the Dubby idea, and may buy one...but not for cutting segments.

The biggest issue is that he acknowledges early on that he is not a segmented turner. So my gut tells me that he hasn't used his technique to cut hundreds and hundreds of segments. It sounded good on the video, but with lots of practice, I suspect he would modify his recommendations.

First, he should not be reaching in to grab the segments next to a spinning blade. While it is obvious he is being careful, it's really poor practice and is awfully dangerous. When you cut scores (or hundreds) of pieces for a vessel, it is all too easy to get a bit careless. A better approach would be to use the eraser end of a pencil to slide the segment away from the blade.

Second, without using some sort of ramp for the cutoffs to fall away from the blade, they can (and will) occasionally get caught by the spinning blade and get thrown like a bullet across the shop. At the very least, bad words will be said. :) That's why I recommend a sled of some sort, with a piece of scrap wood for a ramp...where the cutoff can be deflected away from the spinning blade after being cut, and there will be zero chance of it getting thrown back at ya.

Finally, I think the way he recommends setting the stop block takes too much time, and is prone to error. I prefer to slide the stop block up to the leading edge of your blade, and clamp it to your table saw fence. Then measure the distance between the stop block and the blade, and adjust the table saw fence till the distance is what you want for the segment length, and lock the fence down. Then slide the stop block back to the front of your table, and you are ready to start cutting segments.

my 2 cents
Yikes .... His table saw etiquette is his business in my mind. All I wanted to do is inform folks of the add on fence. It made a good sled better for me when it came to cutting small pieces. I am not looking to critique anyone. So sorry....
 
I liked the way he did his add on fence using dowels and screws, nice way to attach and adjust it. I enjoy seeing how others make jigs and such to improve their precision. His use of hands around the spinning blade wasn't the safest in my mind. There are always tidbits to pick up on videos- things to do and maybe not do. I, for one, just can't bring myself to put calipers on a spinning project on the lathe. Many great turners measure this way, all I see is a big potential for a catch. Everyone has their comfort point, and it usually doesn't change unless an accident occurs. Thanks for the video link.
 
I am a long-time user of the Dubby and I love it for its versatility and accuracy. Its great being able to switch to however many segments I want to make without having to make a new sled. I've made a few modifications, though, for safety and to have a better stop system.

I have an auxilary table like he shows, but it is connected to the Dubby so that when I pull it back, it retrieves the segment for me. So while this is just like a sled, it still lets me make any number of segments per row with deadly accuracy and safety.

I use a MDF fence to which I attach a flip-stop that makes it fast to set and simply flips up when I make my cuts so that the segment is not trapped between the blade and a stop.

What I mostly like about the Dubby is that I can make an odd number of segments in a row and can glue it at once since it can't be made in half rings. The large diameter protractor lets me change the angle by less than a tenth of a degree.

I'm going to make a video showing my process for cutting small segments using the Dubby which can be applied to any other miter system. I have no interest in In-Line Industries, but it is a great solution, especially when used safely.

Lloyd
 
I have an incra miter sled that I really like. Guess it is similar to the Dubby. The sled allows me to lock in my incra miter gauge. Once all squared and aligned, it does a great job n cutting the segment to the proper degree.
 
Hello, I'm new in here and I want to thank those for posting help. Any suggestions for the ULTIMATE SEGMENTED CUTTING JIG? Also what about cutting segments using a chop saw...can anyone suggest a jig

Thanks
 
I have had great success with the Dubby from In Line Industries. Once it is calibrated the accuracy is phenominal. I have not needed to use the miter saw yet but I have not tried anything with compound angles either. When I do I'm sure folks here will be able to offer plenty of help.

RTaylor
 
I have tried to order a Dubby, sadly Jerry will not ship to Canada. Does anyone know anything about the Incra miter5000 system. Ive seen the youtube video, I like to know if anyone has one or has used one?

Thanks
 
I have tried to order a Dubby, sadly Jerry will not ship to Canada. Does anyone know anything about the Incra miter5000 system. Ive seen the youtube video, I like to know if anyone has one or has used one?

Thanks

I don't have the miter 5000, but the miter express. The main difference is the 5000 has a longer fence and a slightly larger sliding table. Also the miter gauage in the 5000 is fixed where in the express you can interchange miter guages.

For segmented bowl work, I have found the miter express combo to more than adequate.

To be clear, the miter express is just the table and needs a miter guage. The miter express combo comes with the miter1000, or you can buy the miter guage seperately. the miter express has a locking slot for the gauge.
 
I have the express and it is very good. I now have a Kapex KS120 sliding miter saw that I paid dearly for, but is dead on accurate.
 
I don't have the miter 5000, but the miter express. The main difference is the 5000 has a longer fence and a slightly larger sliding table. Also the miter gauage in the 5000 is fixed where in the express you can interchange miter guages.

For segmented bowl work, I have found the miter express combo to more than adequate.

To be clear, the miter express is just the table and needs a miter guage. The miter express combo comes with the miter1000, or you can buy the miter guage seperately. the miter express has a locking slot for the gauge.

I have a miter express with a miter 1000 miter gage on it. As with all Incra products it is high quality and deadly accurate. The one thing that is lacking for me,that is real nice for segments, is a good clamping system for small pieces. That simple thumb clamp on the Dubby works so well.
 
Well I ordered the Incra 3000se and the sled. Thank you all for your help.

Do any of you know if Lloyd has started producing the centering jig to work alond with the stomper?
 
Thank you kind sir! That should wrap things up in the toy department for a while.
I have competed my first project with out any jigs of any kind. I made a small bowl, 4 1/2" tall by 6 1/4".
No pictures at this time. I made this project out of construction grade spruce lumber. the reason for this was I wanted to get re-aquinted with some of the tools. I also wanted my children involved. my youngest (11) is very eager to learn and helped with the glue-up. Because my segments were not perfect, the alignment was out a bit. I am however looking forward to the helpful tools coming my way. There is much to learn. Thanks for your help guys, I'm sure you'll be called upon many, many times.
 
Would love to see how you use your Dubby, I have had one on two different saws, love its versatility. I also use a modified Incra with a digital miter guage.
Brad
 
Lloyd,
I have seen your dubby set-up some where on the site, and now cant find it, can you direct me to it please?
brad
 
I'm going to make a video showing my process for cutting small segments using the Dubby which can be applied to any other miter system.

I know this is an old thread, but I have not been able to find this video. I am attempting to make a 48 segment bowl and the first few rings have pretty small segments. They fly all over the shop! Any help would be appreciated.
 
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