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Segmented Bowl with Chevron

  • Thread starter Steven A Nicholson
  • Start date
S

Steven A Nicholson

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I don't know if this is the correct forum but a couple days back I tried to make a chevron for a segmented bowl. I cut the chevron design, then glued them all back together into one long board with a chevron pattern, I trimmed the edges then cut the segments; the chevron was a mess. what was my mistake?
 
The way I make chevrons is to design the in Lamination Pro. The width of the strips is adjusted so the "repeating unit" length is as close as possible to the segment edge length needed. (ex. 1/2 strips glued together results in a segment that would have a 1" SEL.

When I make chevrons I do not glue the cut strips back into one long board. I just make pairs that form the chevron.

Cut your laminated board into the correct strip length. Group them into pairs. Flip the left hand strip left to right to form the chevron. Glue the strip pairs together. Take care to align the strips to get a clean looking chevron.

Next set up your table saw so you can trim the chevrons to the correct segment height by removing the top and bottom dog ears.

The last step is to cut the required miter angle for your segments. The attached Incra pdf shows how to cut individual segment angles.
 

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  • segmented_ring_jig_08.pdf
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The way I make chevrons is to design the in Lamination Pro. The width of the strips is adjusted so the "repeating unit" length is as close as possible to the segment edge length needed. (ex. 1/2 strips glued together results in a segment that would have a 1" SEL.

When I make chevrons I do not glue the cut strips back into one long board. I just make pairs that form the chevron.

Cut your laminated board into the correct strip length. Group them into pairs. Flip the left hand strip left to right to form the chevron. Glue the strip pairs together. Take care to align the strips to get a clean looking chevron.

Next set up your table saw so you can trim the chevrons to the correct segment height by removing the top and bottom dog ears.

The last step is to cut the required miter angle for your segments. The attached Incra pdf shows how to cut individual segment angles.
The way I make chevrons is to design the in Lamination Pro. The width of the strips is adjusted so the "repeating unit" length is as close as possible to the segment edge length needed. (ex. 1/2 strips glued together results in a segment that would have a 1" SEL.

When I make chevrons I do not glue the cut strips back into one long board. I just make pairs that form the chevron.

Cut your laminated board into the correct strip length. Group them into pairs. Flip the left hand strip left to right to form the chevron. Glue the strip pairs together. Take care to align the strips to get a clean looking chevron.

Next set up your table saw so you can trim the chevrons to the correct segment height by removing the top and bottom dog ears.

The last step is to cut the required miter angle for your segments. The attached Incra pdf shows how to cut individual segment angles.
 
Many thanks, I understand now. Also use a Incra Sled, several months back I purchased their miter gauge adjustable to 1/10 degree, huge improvement. S
 
Many thanks, I understand now. Also use a Incra Sled, several months back I purchased their miter gauge adjustable to 1/10 degree, huge improvement. S

I have the Incra Miter express sled along with a incra miter gage adjustable to 1/10 and one that is 1degree notched. On a side note. With the T-slots in the incra miter express sleds you can set up two fences, turning the sled into a segeasy cut sled.

Title: Wedgies
 

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  • incra sled segeasy.jpg
    incra sled segeasy.jpg
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I like segeasy sled, my problem is if I don't use a hold down clamp the saw blade will pull or push the work piece causing a davit in the segment if I try to hold by hand.
 
Is your davit in the segment the part cut off or the stock piece in the jig the longer piece?
 
The imperfection occurs on both pieces, depending on the angle of grind on the saw blade teeth it will either push or pull the work piece a tiny bit. i had my saw filer flatten the angle that helps a lot, but a hold down clamp is the best.
 
Okay, I understand the system you've described for cutting segments to align grain. Now, does that system work with a Chevron design? I just set up a chevron on a flat configuration such that each chevron was absolutely perfectly aligned with it's neighbor. I cut off the dog ears on both sides and started cutting the bevels. If I set the newly cut, angled pieces together, the outside would line up while the INSIDE was a mess. Totally off line and looking horrible. I was using an Incra 1000 do do the angles with, and they are accurate. It requires flipping each piece.

So, should I "Flip" cut a sliver to set the angle, and flip again to cut to the correct width? I've probably not expressed that question too clearly, but this is the second ring I've tried to make and I'm weary of wasting wood. A little help please.

thanks
 
Thought about it and went out and tried it on a piece of scrap. My problem had been that even though I'd set up absolutely perfect chevrons, when I cut their bevels, I didn't account for the LOSS of wood and the alteration to the pattern. The chevrons simply didn't line up on the inside anymore.

I have a "Stock" piece drying even as we speak which I will cut into chevrons and trim the Dog Ears off. I'll glue them into small sets, as you recommended, cut the bevel on one end, flip it to cut the bevel on the other end. Then I'll trim the next piece to fit. I'll read your PDF file a couple more times and make sure I understand what I believe I hear you saying.

More later.
 
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