• Are you looking for a coupon code to buy my software? You can get one from lots of 3rd party sites but they won't work. My software never goes on sale and has never been discounted. The only coupon codes that are given is when I give a club presentation and I offer a discount to the attendees. Other than that, everyone pays the same price.

Collaborative Bowl Project - Closed Segment

The one I have will cut up to 1/2 inch. I have use some that are about 3/8" but they are thick and harder to use. I find most of mine are about 3/16 inch and usually I stick to 50 lbs. strength. I don't see any need to go to a stronger tie and think 40 lbs. would probably be sufficient. I buy the 14.5 inch length and then hook a couple together when needed. With a bit of planning you can save one when removing after the glue up. I know some feel the cost (.07 to .14 cents) per ring is costly when compared to one time price of ring clamp. I think the ease in use and no nob offset is worth the $2.00 to $5.00 cost especially when you figure in the cost of wood, tools, glue and time.
 
I forgot to mention a bit ago about one issue that cropped up and it really is not a big deal. As you can see in the picture I take my plan and mark the segments as to which fence they get cut from. I call them "Innies" and "outies" LOL. The reason I do this is sometimes depending on the ring and the pattern of color you only need segments from one fence. Cutting with the segeasy sled you end up with one set of segments being wasted. What I started doing was identifying which fence I needed and after the cut is made I just re-trim the piece of wood cutting only enough off to re-establish the angle. This way I only end up with the one set of segments. Hope that makes sense.

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One more question to all of you. I did model my bowl in Sketchup with the top brim being with walnut. Whats your thoughts? Should it be walnut or maple or even the padauk.

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I like the walnut. Change the SU model making the top maple and post a photo showing the two side by side. I don't think the padauk would look balanced.
 
This is row 6 that was glued on yesterday. I sanded it with my board that has 80 grit attached. Then I pencil mark it and resand with 120. I check that it is flat then apply the next ring.

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Then flip to the jumbo jaws and flatten ring #7. Had a small issue with this ring. When I took out my centre disc I broke two joints. A bit of CA and accelerator and I was back in business.

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Ring 8 is in clamps and ring 9 the segments are cut.
 
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I still like the walnut top ring. The padauk would also work and possibly be better if the base was padauk. The maple doesn't work in my opinion.

You are coming right along with the project and it's looking good.
 
I still like the walnut top ring. The padauk would also work and possibly be better if the base was padauk. The maple doesn't work in my opinion.

You are coming right along with the project and it's looking good.
The walnut was the original plan so I will probably stick with it. Always nice to hear the different opinions.
 
As I get closer to cutting the top ring does anyone have any thoughts or is there wisdom or policy that the top ring should stay at 48 segments or would you go with 24 segments for the top ring? Does it really matter? Would 24 make the brim stronger?
 
I don't think you have to worry about 24 being stronger. I think the 24 segments would line up okay but I'm not so sure it wouldn't stick out as a contrast with all the other rings being 48. Once again make a sample using your SU file. Blow up the .jpg as close as you can on your monitor to see how you feel.
 
Here is my bowl with row 8 on and rough turned. Second picture is with row 9 ready to glue. Row 10 is in clamps. The pattern is taking shape.

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A bit of a slow start today. I did get row 10 glued onto the bowl today. Have row 11 in clamps and have the segments cut for 12 & 13. Tomorrow I will turn the inside again before adding row 11.
 
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