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Collaborative Bowl Project - Closed Segment

Glenn this glue up on these small rings are kicking my butt.
This last ring had a BAD joint on one segment and I cut it off and through it in the trash.
Enough for today. Today was a disaster
 
Bob: I am out of town and don't have access to my shop. Here is a quick diagram of the alignment block I was trying to describe when doing rub joints. It basically forces the outside edges to be aligned evenly. I noticed in your post 118 a few segments are sticking out from the others.

The block has to have a good flat even surface. when finalizing the rub joint the one segment is placed flush against the block. the second segment is pressed against the joining edge of the first segment and pushed till the corner hits the block. I hold them in place for 15-30 seconds, then set them aside to dry.

Give it a try and see if it doesn't help in getting the outsides to match up.


View attachment 1498
Tried the rub joint method, had problems with the wood bowing. Must be the moisture from the glue. The edge length of the pieces is only 0.24" and the inside is 0.107". Used some spring clamps on the pairs to keep them from pulling apart.
2016-10-03 13.35.00.jpg
Glued up enough pieces to get a quarter ring.
After drying it was a lot out of 90 degrees.

Have you ever tackled pieces this small?
 
Tried the rub joint method, had problems with the wood bowing. Must be the moisture from the glue. The edge length of the pieces is only 0.24" and the inside is 0.107". Used some spring clamps on the pairs to keep them from pulling apart.
View attachment 1499
Glued up enough pieces to get a quarter ring.
After drying it was a lot out of 90 degrees.

Have you ever tackled pieces this small?

Smallest I have done is Segment Length .46 and thickness .125".
Depending on the wood I have experienced warping when dealing with thin material like the .125. That is where I went to using thicker material .5 to .75 thick. cut the segments and build half rings. I checked the half rings to make sure they formed a true circle. Then I would mark the half rings so I could keep track of the slabs I cut on the band saw. Reason for the half ring being cut on the bandsaw is the half ring rest flat on the bandsaw table. I also use a jig to hold the ring against the bandsaw fence.

Then I would glue the paired half rings into a circle. Last I would run them through a drum sander to flatten the ring.

Have you tried using a minimal amount of glue for the rub joint when your dealing with <.25" thick pieces?. imo, the main strength of the ring comes when mounted unto another ring. Lots of glue and let it squeeze out. I have not had a warping problem when gluing >.5" thick segments.
 
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Once I am able to get back in my shop I will still pursue trying to complete my flower type design. That is not saying that I will succeed. This being a hobby it's not meant to be a source of stress or frustration. Know when to say "Uncle".

Like I said before I think 48 segments is better suited for an open segment project and that is where I may end up as well.

Bob, you have done some really nice work that you have displayed in the gallery. Why not stick with your strengths.
 
Bob, remember the first rule: Have fun. If it stops being fun set aside and turn a different project. You can always come back to it.

I have had rings that dry fit perfect that had segments split apart because I did two things. First I used way more glue than was needed then used a damp cloth to clean off the excess. What I did was introduce way too much moisture that then caused swelling.
 
I agree with Stuart Johnson, you went to a lot of work for a so so result. It seems that you are not completely satisfied with your effort. If you want to learn this process I'd start again and strive to get the outer edges aligned perfectly which will go along way in making the ring round. This, in turn, will make the ring alignment with adjacent rings much better. I like mfisher's segment alignment fence idea and might try it, but I just feel the point ant adjust the segments until I can't feel the sharp edges. By the way, I've done dozens and dozens of segmented projects and I've not had one that I was completely satisfied with.
 
We be trying again. Trying some of Stuart suggested Glued whole ring on and will split on the lathe. Ring one ready to split. I turned the ID and OD. Should be able to match these up??

2016-10-06 16.15.33.jpg
 
How do like that. That was the 128th post in this string and it was my 128 posting. I could not have planned that better. :)
 
Looks bang on!

Yah pretty happy. Will not be doing anything on the project this weekend. My wife has a jewelry show up in Door County this weekend. Two day show so we leave tomorrow early afternoon to setup and will not be home until late Sunday. I have a show Nov. 27th at the Green Bay Yactch Club and this bowl WILL BE the shining jewel at my booth. Confidence is HIGH!!!!
 
Looking good. Next you'll be using Lam Pro to design circles and turning pendants to go along with your wife's jewelry. Maybe some joint projects.
 
Cutting rings off and changing glue up and mounting procedure. Had third ring glued up and mounted, but had one segment that did not get pushed all the way down tight, so there was a small gap at the glue line. Cut the double ring, (I'm making the about 3/4"- 7/8" thick, what ever I can get from the board thickness) re-flattened the pieces and glued the ring back on. Then split the ring. Need to flatten and add ring four.

The change I'm going to make is to assemble each ring on a separate face plate and waste block. I'll then flatten the face, turn it round and then glue it to the bowel, still attached to the face plate and mounted in the tail stock. With the ring turned round it is WAY easier to see where you are when trying to align the joints.

My indexing plate idea is still floating around in my head but the turning the ring round before glue up seems to have helped a lot
 
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